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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Pichon-Longueville Baron is wonderfully aromatic and textured in the glass. Scents of smoke, pipe tobacco and cedar meld into a core of intense dark fruit. Pliant and supple, but with considerable underlying structure, the 2012 is likely to drink well for the next two to three decades, perhaps longer, but it is also…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot; 80% new oak): Opaque ruby-purple. Fragrant bouquet of blackberry, violet and spicy graphite. Bright and juicy on the palate, with sneaky concentration and lively acidity lifting the delicate blackcurrant and mineral flavors. Finishes long and tactile, with hints of ink and spice. A very good showing.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Coffee, cedar, spice and blackcurrant aromas. Fresh, nicely delineated fruit of good richness and depth. Lingering, moderately tannic finish. Quite refined alongside the more exotic ’89, but this wine lacks the fat and concentration of the best ’90s.

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Wild, exotic aromas of crystallized redcurrant, leather, tobacco and minerals; distinctly exotic, even overripe. Then lush, sweet and opulent, with an atypically velvety texture for Montrose. But extremely young and structured, finishing with powerful tannins and great grip and length. Almost California-like in style; in Bordeaux, they’d refer to the fruit expression of…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1990 Palmer has long been one of my favorite vintages; at 31 years of age, it is still utterly sublime. It opens wonderfully in the glass with blackberry, forest floor, crushed iris petals and just a touch of dried blood. You would actually think that this comes from a cooler growing season. The palate…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Medium-deep color. Aromas of blackcurrant, licorice and exotic spices. Dense, sweet and creamy, with notes of dark chocolate and jammy berries. Lively acids give this lovely vinosity. Finishes with lush tannins, sweet oak notes and very good length.