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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a delineated and tightly coiled nose with crushed stone-infused green apple, rather fresh considering the growing season, with hints of grass clipping. The palate is cohesive on the entry with a bitter lemon note that lends this Puligny tension; it’s fresh and saline with a cohesive and persistent…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Meursault Sous Le Dos d’Ane offers traces of orchard fruit, hints of linseed and hazelnut, nicely focused and gains intensity in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a slightly tangy entry, hints of orange rind and fresh pear and moderate depth with a tensile and slightly pithy finish.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru conveys the imprimatur of the growing season more than Leflaive’s other cuvées, the ripest and perhaps more exotic with candied orange peel, quince and light peppermint scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine acidity, ripe and quite bold in style, though it clams up towards its slightly reductive…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2020 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is more backward on the nose compared to the Bienvenue at the moment despite rigorous coaxing. The palate has impressive weight and density, perhaps less finesse than the more approachable Bienvenue at the moment but with more aging potential. It feels long on the saline finish, but it’s surly at…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2014 Dominus is endowed with tons of depth, power and muscle. Black cherry, plum, smoke, menthol, licorice, chocolate, dried herbs and dark spices are all pushed forward. Deep, pliant and exquisitely layered, the 2014 possesses tons of concentration and mid-palate depth. Like so many wines in this vintage, the 2014 comes across as a…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande is a decent if not exceptional wine. I found it horrendously inconsistent just after bottling, swinging from excessively ripe to green within the space of two bottles; it has since settled down. The nose of black currant and crème de cassis is a little smudged but offers satisfying purity and not too…