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2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Paiagallo is laced with kirsch, sweet spice, new leather, menthol and rose petal. Exotic and super-ripe, the 2018 shows all the warmth of the year in its sweet fruit and pronounced alcohol, but avoids the angular contours that afflict so many wines. Even with all of that richness, the 2018 retains a…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Kabinett has a very open but tender nose: ripe greengage is bright and edged with a whisper of chervil. The sweetness on the palate kicks in first, but lightness takes over with serene lemon freshness and fine, almost earthy stone. Ripe greengage, delineated by lemon, soaks up that initial sugar and…

2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhof was harvested in Saarburg, Wiltingen and Oberemmel and fermented spontaneously, half in stainless steel, half in Fuder. The nose has subtle yeast notes but comes across as very fresh, with hints of green apple and lemon and a slightly flinty flicker. The palate is exquisitely light and gently sweet. Herbal notions…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru includes three-quarters whole cluster fruit. It has a beautifully-defined bouquet with a mixture of red and black fruit, wilted rose petals, incredibly precise and focused. The palate has an unerring symmetry, a fine bead of acidity, precise and crisp, the whole bunch seamlessly integrated with an assiduous sprinkling of…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux Saint-Jacques 1er Cru has a mineral-driven bouquet with dark berry fruit, sous-bois and just a touch of dessicated orange peel. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity. Is it the most complex Lavaux? Maybe not, though it has an attractive juiciness mixed with sapidity that keeps you coming…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru is so much more expressive on the nose compared to the Chambertin (which is a cooler terroir due to the clay, its location next to the combe and adjacent to the frost). Shimmering red fruit, crushed stone, orange pith and pressed iris petals make up the bouquet. You could…