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Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on 25 August at 33.5hL/ha. It is clearly a level up on the nose over its “kid brother” with more mineralité and terroir expression. With dark berry fruit, incense and a light sous-bois element, there is a sense of cohesion and refinement that is very alluring. The…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru is one of my favorite wine in this range, and I say that notwithstanding the fact that Richebourg is rarely a wine I truly adore, at DRC or anywhere else. Dark and somber, the 2020 is packed with blue/black fruits, mocha, lavender and graphite. The typically burly Richebourg tannins are…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 23 and 24 August, the first fruit to be picked. Yields are 31.7hL/ha. It has a very perfumed bouquet, with more intensity than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, but I wonder whether it matches it for complexity? There is a lovely background ember scent with Earl Grey loitering in the…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. More expressive on the nose today than the Amoureuses, offering ineffable scents of black raspberry, lavender and flinty, smoky minerality. By far the plushest and deepest of these 2014s but still with outstanding definition and verve. This wonderfully fine-grained, classically dry Musigny boasts bulletproof fruit and finishes with impressive medicinal reserve. Beginning…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is magical. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from Arione, so the 2015 is 80% Francia and 20% Arione. That marks a return to Monfortino as a multi-vineyard wine, which it mostly was until 1978, when the first Monfortino from Francia was made. The combination of sites works…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of lemon thyme, crushed limestone, and traces of orange pith and citrus peel that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is underpinned with a fine, almost razor-sharp bead of acidity. There is a wonderful crescendo of flavor here, leading to a multifaceted, lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers…