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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more pungency compared to the Bienvenue, but perhaps not quite the same alluring charm, at least at this primordial stage. The palate is where it’s at: supremely well balanced, exuding a sense of coiled-up energy countered by a dense, persistent finish. A bit of a beast, but…

New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Dark red. Vaguely roasted aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry and plum, plus hints of grilled meat and tobacco. Liqueur-like cherry and dark berry flavors betray a touch of warmth, with supple tannins building with air. This distinctly warm, toasty, rich wine should be drunk on the young side before it loses its freshness.

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)

Ruby-red. Cherry, blackcurrant, red berries and spicy oak on the nose, with hints of cracked pepper and fresh herbs. Medium-bodied, fresh and silky, the red and dark berry fruit flavors joined by cured meat, tobacco and mocha. Finishes on a pronounced note of pomegranate, with fine-grained tannins offering support. While this is drinking well already,…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale, bright yellow. Very high-pitched aromas of lavender and iodine. Extremely rich and powerful but with a shockingly light touch and outstanding precision to its flavors of citrus fruits, mirabelle, minerals and spices. Just a hint of surmaturite here, but with the lemony acidity and supporting structure for a long evolution in bottle. Finishes with…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

Layers of beautifully delineated, expressive fruit emerge from the 2009 Montrachet. The wine blossoms on the mid-palate and finish, with generous, radiant fruit that flows through to the long, sensual finish. This remains a decidedly understated, fresh style of Montrachet. Ideally it needs a few more years to truly come together in bottle, although it…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2019 Skurfberg, which is whole-cluster-pressed Chenin matured in old _foudre_, has an understated bouquet of subtle undergrowth, chalk and chai tea scents that take their time to find their groove. The palate is very well balanced with a fine degree of acidity, more neutral in style than Sadie’s other 2019s, just a touch of…