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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that famously came in an eye-catching gold-embossed bottle, though I was rather ambivalent about its quality. Now just over two decades old, it has a focused bouquet of blackberry, mint and tobacco/black truffle scents, demonstrating fine intensity if not the show-stopping complexity one might expect from a First Growth…

Seeing 20/20 – Sonoma & Anderson Valley New Releases (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pinot Noir Bodega Headlands Cuvée Elizabeth is a very pretty and expressive wine. Bright floral notes and red-toned fruits grace this supple, racy Pinot from Occidental. Hints of Asian spice and blood orange add pretty, exotic overtones. The 2017 was done with fully destemmed fruit, but it has a very attractive savory quality….

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petit-Village is sumptuous and racy, but remains very much medium in body. Silky tannins add to the wine's finesse. Dark-toned fruit, chocolate, spice, menthol, licorice and dried herbs all meld together in a Petit-Village of distinction and class. The 2018 is very nicely done.

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

This Pomerol estate just outside Catusseau was acquired from AXA Millésimes by the Moulin family in the summer of 2020; they had previously purchased Château Beauregard in 2014. I spoke to winemaker Diana Berrouet-Garcia via Zoom, and she explained how they are currently reorganizing the vineyard, replanting some parcels that have been affected by virus…

1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Good full ruby. Lightly floral aromas of blackcurrant, maple syrup, mocha, espresso and fresh herbs. Lush and medium-sweet, with very good intensity, bright acidity and a deep, tight core of fruit. Subtle and juicy rather than unctuous or powerful, and impeccably balanced. Long, youthfully aggressive finish features a note of dark chocolate and sneaky persistence….

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2015 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto is remarkably fresh and balanced despite its large-scale persona. Minty herbs give way to raspberry and cherry with exotic spices and a hint of pine resin. It boasts depths of silky textures; yet it remains juicy and full of energy, displaying ripe red and black fruits,…