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Champagne: The Summer Preview (Jul 2015)

A total turn-on, the 1995 Comtes de Champagne is utterly magnificent. Orange marmalade, mint, smoke, hazelnuts, white truffles and honey blossom come to life in an exquisite, resonant Champagne that delivers the goods, big time. Opulent and exotic yet miraculously fresh for a 20 year-old wine, the 1995 Comtes is in a beautiful spot to…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2002)

Pale, green-tinged color. Incredible shiver-producing 99-point nose combines peach, lemon, iodine and steely, petrolly, slatey soil tones; I was reminded of Chevalier-Montrachet and great Mosel riesling. Full and creamy-smooth but extremely young. This brilliantly minerally wine seems to thicken and intensify after 10 or 15 seconds in the mouth, offering layer upon layer of soil…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright, deep ruby-red. High-pitched aromas of blackberry, bitter chocolate and shoe polish, with a slightly rustic animal element. Rich, fat and dry, with flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate and violet nicely firmed by ripe acidity. Offers a finer texture but less power than the 2000. Finishes with sweet, fine, slowly mounting tannins and an…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Aiguilhe, matured 70% new oak, is cut from a different cloth than the 2000. On the plusher, opulent nose, there’s more red fruit, blood orange and dried figs; some damson emerges in the glass, seeming somehow melted in quality. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins and a keen thread of acidity….

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2006)

Medium saturated ruby. Cool aromas of cassis, dark chocolate and mocha. Then sweet and bright in the mouth, with intense, peppery berry flavors complicated by leather and minerals. A distinctly stony, gripping style of wine that finishes a tad short and green. Currently less expressive and less generous than the best vintages, but keep in…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.4% alcohol; 32 h/h; 9/12 harvest): Good medium red with a faint suggestion of amber at the rim. Less detailed on the nose than the 2010, but still with a subtle soil character to the aromas of dried flowers, mocha, mint, licorice and spices. A more powerful, savory style than the ’10 but less expressive…