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An Ineluctable Pair: 2017 Vintage Ports (Jun 2019)

The 2017 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port was picked from August 21 to September 28 under perfect conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet that requires a lot of aeration. Eventually it reveals fabulous, detailed aromas of cassis, bilberry jam, crushed stone and pressed violets, later hints of orange blossom and quince. The palate is…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Castelletto Vigna Pressenda is a very pretty, aromatic wine redolent of floral and savory notes. Dried cherry, blood orange, mint, sage and licorice are all beautifully lifted. This elegant, translucent Monforte Barolo has to much so offer. The 2018 is all class. Time brings out dimension and breadth to round things out.

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

A gorgeous, alluring Pauillac, the 2017 Pontet-Canet is racy and exceptionally polished, with floral top notes that bring out the natural brightness of the red-toned fruit. Super-silky tannins add to the wine's immediacy and sheer allure. The 2017 was the first wine made with the new sorting table. About half the fruit was destemmed by…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pontet-Canet offers attractive red berry fruit mixed with cedar and potpourri, underneath which lies subtle aromas of graphite that I would like to see a little more of as it matures in bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that render this one of the more approachable vintages in recent years. The…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pape Clément is such a beautiful and inviting wine. Silky, perfumed and layered, the 2018 shows the more restrained, vibrant style that has become the norm here in recent years. Red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal and spice are front and center, while the oak – in the past so strong here – is…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pape-Clément has a very intense nose of blackberry, briar, cedar and crushed flowers. That showiness that I commented upon in barrel has ebbed away to reveal a most sophisticated nascent wine. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, layers of graphite-infused black fruit and a keen thread of acidity. An attractive touch of…