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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Branaire Ducru takes some time to unfurl in the glass and so I afford it 10 minutes to open with rigorous swirling. It repays patience with a tightly-knit, quite intense and disarmingly pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, loamy and light minty aromas. The oak is nicely integrated here. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Branaire Ducru has a tightly wound bouquet of blackberry, wild hedgerow, freshly tilled loam and distinct sea spray scents, all well defined, albeit 15­–20 minutes after opening my sample bottle. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, and very cohesive, displaying a keen thread of acidity. Unlike previous vintages, there is impressive density…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Bellevue is dense and powerful, but also quite reticent following its bottling this past June. Dark and virile, the 2016 is going to need at least a few years to come into its own. The intensity and volume the wine showed en primeur are very much in evidence, but also presently enshrouded by…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Bellevue has a medicinal nose of precocious black cherry fruit infused with touches of camphor and star anise. The medium-bodied palate offers succulent tannins, fine delineation and black pepper and sage toward the quite stocky finish. It needs time to soften but should be worth the wait. Again, I suspect this has just…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Batailley has an attractive, meaty bouquet with more red fruit than black, unlike many of its peers. With aeration it appears to gain more floral notes and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, linear and focused, offering pencil lead, cedar and light spicy notes toward the conservative, controlled finish. A mocha-tinged…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright red-ruby. Ripe, enticing aromas and flavors of plum, smoked meat and underbrush. Pure and focused in the mouth, with a firm mineral spine contributing to the impression of tightness. Finishes with solid tannins that are a bit dominant today.