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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy Additions (Jan 2021)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, one of Boillot’s strongest wines, has a delightful bouquet with well-defined scents of dried honey, hazelnut and crushed rock, quite Meursault-like in style. The palate is fresh on the entry with crisp acidity, not amazingly complex overall, yet I admire its tension and length, with quite a persistent spicy aftertaste….

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru is a very pretty wine that can be enjoyed with minimal cellaring. Apricot, lemon confit, chamomile, mint and dried flowers all grace this attractive, inviting Chablis. Floral notes develop later, adding lift and brightness, while saline underpinnings lend a palpable sense of energy. This is such a terrific expression…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2017 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru is 40% fermented in barrel that was blended with tank wine two weeks previously. The bouquet is a little muted at the moment, possibly from the recent blending however, the palate is very promising with a killer line of acidity that lends so much tension, almost to the point…

Chablis Gets the Côte de Beaune Treatment from Mother Nature (Jul 2016)

Smoky silex and wet stone aromas are complicated by piquant citrus high notes and a subtle yeasty element. Large-scaled, intense and structured, showing a distinctly crisp character for its richness thanks to penetrating lemony acidity. The Moreaus’ organic viticulture makes for relatively low pHs (3.2 in this 2014) but the acidity here is only 4.0…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(Boillot’s fruit comes from 50+-year-old vines that produced 30 hectoliters per hectare in 2014; there’s one new and one one-year-old barrel of this juice): Bright, dark red. Brooding, classic Bonnes-Mares aromas of black cherry, wild dark berries, mocha, licorice, brown spices, menthol, stone and roasted herbs. A pure, velvety confection in the mouth; wonderfully subtle…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Sexy, expressive aromas of pineapple, stone fruits, hawthorn, almond flower and spicy oak. Silky and full but surprisingly light on its feet, showing captivating floral lift and definition to its lemon, peach and smoky mineral flavors. This vibrant, fine-grained wine coats the cheeks and leaves the mouth refreshed.