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Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today….

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Currant, shoe polish, currant leaf and nutty oak on the nose. Chunkier and fleshier than the Carruades de Lafite-in fact, almost rustic by comparison-but with firm supporting acidity. Rather backward wine that will need at least a few years of aging once it bottled.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Duhart-Milon is noticeably deep in color. It has a crisp bouquet of brambly black fruit, truffle, freshly rolled tobacco and just a touch of mint. The aromatics here are impressive and exude Pauillac class. The palate is medium-bodied with suppler tannins than the aromatics augur, and austere but quite deep in the mouth,…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Deep lurid ruby. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented boysenberry, cherry liqueur and violet aromas show excellent clarity and pick up a hint of olive with aeration. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering deeply concentrated yet energetic dark berry preserve, cola and floral pastille flavors, plus a suggestion of spicecake. The extremely long, velvety finish features…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Screaming Eagle is fabulous. Rich and ample on the palate, with soaring aromatics from the Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2015 is a drop-dead gorgeous beauty. Ripe red plum, pomegranate, mint, kirsch, lavender and sweet spice notes are beautifully delineated in the glass. In this tasting, the Cabernet-based Screaming Eagle is quite a bit more…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

Matured in 25% new oak and 90% whole bunches, the 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Les Sentiers 1er Cru is the most opulent of Groffier’s 2019s with kirsch and orange zest infusing the red berry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with a little oak to be subsumed on the entry. Good weight, quite muscular for a Chambolle with…