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Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Knockout nose of ripe pear, Granny Smith apple, coriander, toast, brioche and hops. Flavors very much like the aromas; really builds and fills the mouth. Classic mature Bollinger flavors and slight sherry nuances. Seems fully resolved, but then those who love this style should enjoy this bottle for several years.

Vinous Table: Burgundy Christmas Dinner (Mar 2022)

The 2000 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is far better than the 1998, an ethereal wine that transcends the growing season. It has a stunning nose of mineral-saturated black fruit, evoking a sense of transparency that is absent on the 1998. It’s just pure unadulterated Pinoté. The palate has a slightly ferrous entry, a little…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(66% grenache, 15% syrah, 13% mourvedre and 6% cinsault): Bright ruby-red. Ripe cherry and dark berries on the nose, complicated by smoke, licorice and lavender nuances. Fleshy and deeply pitched but surprisingly lithe, offering juicy black raspberry and cassis flavors and a hint of exotic spices. Closes with excellent clarity and grip, the dark berry…

2016 Chianti Classico – A Modern Day Benchmark (Aug 2019)

The 2016 Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia is powerful, rich and explosive, with tremendous drive. Even so, several bottles have been quite closed. That is probably a very good sign for the long-term, but readers should not plan on touching a bottle anytime soon. A wine of vertical drive and aromatic nuance, the 2016 Rancia is…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(fermented in large oak tanks and aged for six years in new French and American oak barriques) Saturated ruby. Explosively perfumed aromas of fresh ripe red fruits, floral oils, pipe tobacco and incense take on sexy vanilla and woodsmoke nuances as the wine opens up. Densely packed yet shockingly lithe on the palate, offering intense…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(Jadot buys must and grapes from three different sources, all on the Puligny side of the appellation): Healthy bright yellow. Fresher on the nose than the Bienvenue, offering scents of acacia flower, coconutty oak and caramel; quite open today owing to lower free sulfur at bottling. Concentrated and flavorful if a bit warm, with peach,…