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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good bright, deep red. Raspberry liqueur, crushed rock and vanillin oak on the suave, subdued nose; shows the greatest lift of these 2009s. Superconcentrated and creamy but light on its feet, displaying terrific energy and sappiness for 2009. Gained in verve with aeration, with high-pitched, tangy flavors of raspberry, pomegranate, flowers and minerals spreading out…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated dark red. Deep, nuanced nose combines dark fruits, minerals and underbrush. Sweet and highly concentrated but tight and backward, even a bit sullen today; fruit and stone flavors are quite primary for the vintage. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and very good grip. May ultimately merit an even higher rating.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright medium ruby-red. Musky aromas of cassis, fruitcake, chocolate and smoke. Richer and more minerally than the Carruades, but more backward and restrained. There’s also a slightly weedy hint of the year but this is suppler and richer in texture. Finishes with slightly dusty but polished tannins and a suggestion of medicinal cabernet.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good deep ruby-red. Sexy aromas of currant, minerals and gunpowder tea. Densely packed and minerally, with uncompromising dryness and a firm edge of acidity. Very old school and in need of bottle aging, yet this already has considerable sex appeal.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Brut Vintage is a tasty, straightforward Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. Orchard fruit, baked apple tart, pastry, dried flowers and chamomile all grace this open-knit, easygoing Champagne.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Highly nuanced nose combines Indian spices, lees, truffle and strong soil tones; showed a distinct raspberry note with aeration. Explosive and powerful in the mouth; concentrated, focused and youthful. But tightly wound, and currently dominated by its structure. Doesn’t offer the urgent dark fruit flavors or generosity of the supernal ’85 and seems a bit…