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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Excellent deep ruby. Vibrant, perfumed aromas of cassis, crystallized black cherry, Cuban tobacco, minerals, dark chocolate and mint. Thick, sweet and concentrated; ripe and pliant. Lively flavor of crunchy berries. Lovely balance and complexity. Finishes very long, with chewy, palate-coating tannins. A classic vintage for Branaire, says Dhalluin, who considers this and the ’89 the…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1995 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak, has a very refined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and cedar aromas, very focused and sophisticated. The palate is well balanced with sour red cherries, balsamic and cedar notes, vibrant and full of energy, though you might well argue it doesn’t quite have the panache and…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright dark ruby. Knockout perfumed nose of great purity: cassis, violet, minerals and bitter chocolate. A penetrating wine of outstanding vinosity and verve; offers great tensile strength. Youthfully tight, classic claret whose extremely long finish features very fine tannins. I’m not convinced Ducru has made a wine in recent vintages to equal its ’95 and…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

(this has been in a stainless steel tank since September) Bright saturated ruby. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, pepper and spices, with a hint of exotic fruits. Silky and seamless but also primary and precise, with a great lightness of touch. Utterly spherical wine, like Romanee-Conti to the basic bottling’s La Tache. Wonderfully subtle and…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…