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Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion (Nov 2021)

This 1995 Haut-Brion was served blind during the summer at a private dinner in Bordeaux, a bottle with perfect provenance. It is a vintage that I have drunk several times, but not since 2013. Deep in colour, the 1995 has plenty of black fruit on the nose, displaying a distinctive briny influence, classic in style…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red-ruby. Sweet, highly expressive aromas of redcurrant, hot stones, roasted plum, woodsmoke and tobacco. Fuller and more textured in the middle palate, with a chewy, tactile mouth feel that suggests strong extract and a wonderfully pliant texture. A firm mineral underpinning and sound acids frame the fruit. Expansive and seductively sweet in…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1989 Château Margaux is old school on the nose with dark berry fruit, saddle leather, iodine and a touch of wild mint. It’s much more loose-knit than the 1990, which I personally prefer. The palate is well balanced with a sweet entry, not amazingly complex yet refined and delicate in the style of, say,…