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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d'Estournel is a racy, powerful Saint-Estèphe that is going to need quite a bit of time to find its center. Today, it is tightly wound, but all the energy is there. Lush and extravagantly ripe, the 2018 possesses tremendous depth and plenty of energy to back it all up. Here, too, I…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel showed a lot of promise when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle and given a 2–3-hour decant, it has a gorgeous and disarmingly pure bouquet, slightly high-toned with iodine scents infusing the lush blackberry and boysenberry scents. The oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is fresh and crisp on…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2002 Cristal is just entering its first plateau of maturity. Ripe, exotic and striking, the 2002 is all class. Apricot jam, ginger, spice, dried flowers and mint open first as the 2002 shows off its alluring personality. Pretty floral accents, apple tart and brioche build with time in the glass, bringing out added dimensions…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 2005 Palmer, picked from September 9 to October 10, remains deep in color. It has a lovely, intense bouquet with blackcurrant pastilles, raspberry, violet and juniper. It blossoms in the glass, gaining vigor. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, structured and dense, strangely Pomerol-like in style, with touches of black pepper and truffle…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Perrot-Minot lost half of the crop here to frost in 2016): Good dark red. Knockout nose combines all the major Clos de Bèze food groups: raspberry, spices, rose petal, leather and stony, smoky silex minerality. Large-scaled, silky and mouthfilling without any undue weight, conveying a higher-pH impression than most of the other ’16s here–but Perrot-Minot…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1959 Lynch-Bages is a vintage that I last tasted four years earlier. This bottle is quite similar. It has a wonderful bouquet with expressive red berry fruit and orange rind. This bottle’s minty element is more conspicuous and perhaps almost too strong. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of red fruit deriving…