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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Very ripe yet fresh on the nose: cherry, raspberry, graphite, chocolate, minerals. Lush, velvety and sweet, with unusual vivacity for a 2003 from the right bank thanks to the 50% cabernet franc component. Really coats the mouth with flavors of black raspberry, currant and chocolate. Not yet hugely complex, but the wine’s freshness,…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2005 Rouge is laced with dried cherry, tobacco, mint, sage, leather, coffee and licorice, all wrapped around a core of dark fruit. Tasted next to the 2008, which is at a comparable stage of its aromatic evolution, the 2005 has a bit more fruit and plushness, along with the firm tannins that are such…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Moderately saturated ruby-red. Rather subdued aromas of plum, currant and game. An accessible midweight, with ripe, oak-enhanced tannins and good length. Not at all dilute. A good lunch wine and a good first wine for dinner, says Tesseron.

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

Deep red. A complex, heady bouquet of dried red berries, sandalwood, rose oil, black tea and licorice pastille. Smooth, focused and gently sweet cherry and raspberry flavors coat the palate, with gentle but integrated tannins providing shape. This silky, seamless wine finishes with a strong echo of candied flowers, spices and minerals.

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1992 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru from Bonneau du Martray is a vintage that I have not tasted previously. To be frank, I was hoping for a little more conviction and energy on the nose given that this was a great white Burgundy vintage. The palate is slightly better: balanced with fine acidity, notes of brioche,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

It is time that the 1982 Haut-Brion got the respect it deserves. Forever deemed the “least” of the First Growth, that holds no water if this example is anything to go by, the best of a couple of dozen bottles encountered over many years. Amazingly-fresh on the nose, this shimmers with red fruit, black olive,…