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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

This magnum of 1982 Talbot was the biggest surprise of the 1982 dinner that wowed every attendee…including yours truly. Stunning definition on the flattering nose, this is so fragrant and quite floral with wilted rose petals and mint complementing the red fruit. The palate is marked by a fine bead of acidity, this magnum even…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1982 Talbot has long been one of my favourites of the decade. Now at 35 years of age it retains its deep garnet colour. The bouquet is fresh and vigorous with black fruit, sous-bois, chocolate and a light splash of balsamic, almost like a “toned down” Gruaud Larose. The palate is cohesive with fine…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Ruby-red. Flamboyant if somewhat unrefined nose melds plum, roasted red berries, leather, meat and tobacco. Sweet but firm-edged, with solid richness and a layered texture. Finishes with slightly edgy tannins that still could use a couple years of patience.

Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1984 Pichon-Lalande has an attractive nose: blackberry, bilberry, red pepper, sandalwood and decayed leaves, surprisingly fresh, perhaps just with a touch of brettanomyces? Becoming more hickory with time. The palate is balanced with supple tannins, fine acidity, slightly grainy in texture and then softening towards the liquorice tinged finish. This maybe lacks a little…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1986 La Conseillante is a wine that I have tasted on three occasions. As part of the Chez Bruce vertical in research for the book it failed to shine and in print I described it as curmudgeonly and dowdy. Recent bottles have been a little better, reflecting a rather dull patch for the estate…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Deep smoky, leesy aromas of apple, toffee, clove and nuts, lifted by a lemony nuance. A medium-bodied wine with plenty of dosage; sweet flavors of apple and mirabelle retain good freshness of fruit for ’89. Frothy, smooth and essentially gentle, but with decent backbone and grip. Firm on the finish.