Archives: Product Reviews

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2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep, dark red. Multidimensional bouquet of kirsch, cassis, red plum, pipe tobacco, grilled meat, licorice pastille and roasted coffee; this has nearly all of the Chateauneuf food groups. Utterly mouthfilling in its richness, with tremendous concentration of red and dark berries, garrigue, bittersweet chocolate and aged beef. Finishes with a velvety lushness, round tannins and…

2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

Glass-staining ruby. Pungent, deep-pitched red berry and spicecake aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and candied flowers. Juicy, focused and pure on the palate, offering vibrant raspberry and boysenberry flavors that put on weight and become spicier with air. Finishes with outstanding energy and persistence, displaying lingering spiciness and velvety tannins that sneak…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Inky violet color. Rich, smoky and deep on the nose, with powerful scents of chocolate, creme de mure and kirsch, tinged by candied violet and cracked pepper. Concentrated and lush, with a round, velvety texture and abundant sweet plum, blackberry and mocha flavors. Finishes with ripe, round tannins, a very sweet note of cassis, and…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Inky ruby color. Explosively aromatic and nuanced on the nose, with intense cherry, blackberry and cassis fruit aromas complicated by licorice, cola, sassafras, magnolia and dried rose. Exotic and sweet, with wild flavors of blood orange, kirsch, raspberry jam, truffle and mocha. Dense and loaded with extract, with a distinctly unctuous, mouthcoating texture. The tannins…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Saturated bright ruby. Sweet, liqueur-like aromas of black fruits, cocoa powder and licorice; showing its mourvedre component today. Impressively dense and sweet but quite closed today in the middle. At its best now on the wonderfully expanding peacock tail of a finish, which features lush, dusty tannins, superb persistence and a late note of black…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(made with 20 percent whole clusters and aged in concrete tanks and demi-muids) Dark ruby. Ripe, smoke-tinged cherry and blueberry compote aromas show excellent clarity, and a peppery element adds spicy lift. Juicy and focused on the palate, offering densely packed yet shockingly lively red and blue fruit and floral pastille flavors and a hint…