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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

(63% pinot noir and 37% chardonnay) Bright yellow-gold. High-pitched aromas of lemongrass, orange peel, pear and white pepper, with a slow-building smokiness. Energetic, sharply focused citrus flavors gain depth with air, picking up deeper orchard and pit fruit character while retaining vivacity. Leaves a trail of piquant minerals and citrus zest behind on the long,…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(racked and sulfited): Good bright, dark red. Raspberry, spices, flowers and licorice on the scented nose. Dense, sweet and creamy, with a dominant flavor of sappy maraschino cherry. Finishes impressively long and palate-saturating, with ripe tannins and good medicinal reserve. Lachaux noted that this cuvee used to be harder, but is very supple in both…

The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Deep red; in fact, almost ruby, showing virtually no sign of development. Knockout nose combines red fruits, iron and spices, along with some balsamic earth notes and a whiff of caramel; I was reminded of a cave à cigares. Full, lush and utterly seamless; large-scaled but weightless, with the redcurrant and earth flavors showing the…

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Medium red. Spicy, inviting bouquet of strawberry and redcurrant, with sexy notes of potpourri and cola. Sappy, finely etched red berry flavors are deepened by cola and sassafras qualities. Very complex Cotes du Rhone with excellent finishing clarity and thrust.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild is a wine I have drunk several times, though maybe this is the first time in magnum. It is deeply impressive. Deep in colour, it has a classic Pauillac nose with intense black fruit mixed with pencil shavings and black truffles. It simply oozes class. The palate is very well balanced with…