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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full medium ruby. The nose offers blackcurrant, licorice, graphite, violet, minerals and exotic spices. Broad, suave and fine-grained on the palate, with fleshy but sharply focused flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco. Finishes classically dry and very long. This is St. Emilion with Pauillac and Graves qualities-and a superb vintage for this chateau, whose…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2005 Figeac has been a variable performer over the years, one where you never quite know what to expect until you pull the corks. As usual, it has a sullen bouquet at first before offering broody black fruit laced with melted tar and tobacco, hints of liquorice almost reluctantly evolving with time. The palate…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Figeac is powerful and tightly wound. It does not possess the density or sheer sexiness of many Right Bank wines. Instead, the 2005 comes across as strict and severe. I am not sure the searing tannins will ever soften enough for the 2005 to be truly pleasurable. There is good brightness and plenty…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Good red-ruby. Altogether more vibrant, sexy nose combines cherry, plum, smoke, coffee, game and Cuban tobacco. Fleshy, round and elegant; a distinct step up in extract and volume. Really compelling sweetness of fruit. Very suave and very long on the finish, which features extremely fine tannins. A superb showing today.

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

The 1996 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques 1er Cru, at 25 years old, offers dark cherries and bay leaf, traits I have noticed before, but here I found a touch of Earl Grey and, with aeration, a heightened marine/oyster shell scent. The palate is beautifully balanced and still exudes wonderful, life-affirming transparency. A little rugged on the…

The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Full reddish brown. Knockout perfumed nose combines raspberry, mocha, truffle and smoky minerality (we’re entering the world of fungus, humus and leaves, noted winemaker Frédéric Barnier). Utterly spherical and round, conveying seamless flavors of raspberry, truffley underbrush and coffee. Slightly edgy tannins and acids draw out and give shape to the finish. But this bottle…