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Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon Hillside Select is one of the more restrained, understated versions of this wine I can remember tasting. Medium in body (in relative terms) and beautifully persistent, the 2014 makes its case more with a total sense of harmony rather than with bombastic power, as is sometimes the case. Moreover, the 2014…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

This 2017 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has a curious menthol-tinged bouquet offering plenty of fruit concentration to the mixture of red cherries, blueberry and cassis. Very opulent; maybe too much. The palate is sweet and candied, and there is quite a lot of new oak here and a lot of extraction. Powerful and virile, though de…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Ausone was bottled in June 2019. It is blessed with one of the most cerebral bouquets that you will find in this vintage. Nuanced scents of violet and wild heather percolate through the blueberry and cassis fruit. Like the aromatics, the palate is almost pixelated in terms of detail. Cashmere tannins, perfectly integrated…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Ausone is incredibly precise and sculpted, but also tightly wound in the early going – not that that will be a problem for readers who own it and will cellar it. Wild flowers, mint, blood orange and crushed rocks are some of the nuances that open up in the glass, but the 2017…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Ausone was picked September 20-27 for the Merlot and October 3, 5 and 7 for the Cabernet Franc, then matured for 20 months in new French oak with light toasting. This is very refined and focused on the nose, less opulent compared to recent vintages, and very sophisticated, with hints of Montecristo cigar…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Ausone is a deep, statuesque Saint-Émilion that is at the beginning of what will surely be a very long, long life. Its vertical energy, stunning aromatics and persistence are all things of beauty, but it is the balance here that is so captivating. The acids and tannins are at once searing in their…