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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a tightly-wound nose that took time to open in the glass, touches of crushed rock filtering through the redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is smooth and sensual, more density and sinew than the Echezeaux and a touch more salinity and energy on the finish. This…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a tightly-wound nose that took time to open in the glass, touches of crushed rock filtering through the redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is smooth and sensual, more density and sinew than the Echezeaux and a touch more salinity and energy on the finish. This…

Nebbiolo Shines in Alto Piemonte, Carema & Valtellina (Jun 2023)

The 2019 Gattinara is bright, effusive and exquisitely beautiful. Silky tannins and compelling inner perfume showcase the more delicate, understated side of the appellation. Elegant and wonderfully precise, the 2019 is a total knock out. Sadly, production is down 35%.

Alto Piemonte, Valtellina & Points North (Mar 2022)

The 2018 Gattinara Valferana is explosive right out of the glass. Supporting veins of tannin carry a core of red fruit, cinnamon, rose petal, blood orange, mint and white pepper. The Valferana is complex and wonderfully deep from start to finish. Valferana is the cooler of the two single vineyard Gattinaras that are bottled separately…

Montevertine: Le Pergole Torte 1980-2012 (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Le Pergole Torte is brilliant. In fact, this is one of the best showings of the 2012 that I can recall. The flavors are bright, focused and pulsing with energy. Because of its mid-weight structure and not overly complex personality, the 2012 looks like it will start drinking well sooner rather than later….

2012 and 2011 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2014)

Tasted first in components: #1, from Beute du Mont, which is just above Maison Rouge in Tupin: Fresh red fruit and floral aromas and flavors show good energy and pick up a spicy quality with aeration. Bright and sharply focused, finishing with good clarity and cut. #2, from Fontgeant: Riper, spicier and darker in character,…