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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Carruades de Lafite has quite a perfumed and floral bouquet, pencil shaving and tobacco scents filtering through the brambly red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lighter than the Le Petit Mouton tasted alongside and just a little conservative on the finish. Tasted twice at Bordeaux Index’s Ten Year-On tasting and…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Redcurrant, minerals and spice on the nose. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, with cooler, rather muscular flavors of kirsch, minerals, mint and shoe polish. Quite tight today, and not yet showing much fat or personality, but has the structure and guts to develop in bottle. Finishes firmly tannic.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Medium-deep red. Plum, currant, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Lush and sweet, with moderate density and harmonious acidity. Perhaps a bit livelier in the mouth than on the nose. Not nearly as ripe on the back end as the ’98, but has sneaky finishing flavor.

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The 2004 Sassicaia is a lovely, understated effort. Medium in body, it presents nuanced layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and toasted oak that gradually open onto a finely-knit frame of notable length. Today it appears to be quite reticent and still holding back much of its potential. Both bottles I sampled showed less…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru has a concentrated nose delineated by hints of pressed white flowers, Vervain tea and crushed stone, with just a bit of reduction. These aromatics are backward at this stage, but they show great potential. The palate is quite sharp on the entry, with a twist of sour lemon…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 1977 Taylor’s Vintage Port is initially tight and conservative on the nose: strawberry, baked cherry, tobacco and wild hedgerow notes emerging but remaining tight-lipped. This needs a good decant! The palate is endowed with depth and concentration, very well balanced with an attractive crispness. Perhaps you could argue that it is a linear and…