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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(73% cabernet sauvignon and 27% merlot) Opaque ruby-purple; this really stains the glass. Intense herbal, cola and coffee notes keep the blackcurrant aroma in check, but I find this nose ultimately lacks grace. Straightforward and austere, with blackberry, cedar and herbal flavors displaying good length. Finishes with a nice peppery kick but this Pauillac currently…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Duhart-Milon has an intense but tightly coiled nose of black fruit laced with cedar and mint. I would have liked to see a little more precision. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and very well judged acidity. There is an appealing sense of symmetry here with fine precision and tension on the…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Carruades de Lafite has a slightly muddled, oxidative nose. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy red berry fruit, lighter than its peers with just a little dryness towards the bottle. Not sure how representative this bottle is. Faulty? Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Carruades de Lafite has a generous bouquet with “playful” red berry fruit, liquorice and cassis. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, plush and rounded in texture. It just comes across a little blocky on the finish when I am seeking more tension and delineation. This bottle questions the longevity of this Second…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep ruby. Perfumed aromas of cassis, violet and graphite minerality. Pure, very fresh dark berry and mineral flavors carry through the long, refined, almost dainty finish. The tannins are impressively silky for a second wine, but this nonetheless shows a hint of astringency at the back, which may be resolved with time in bottle.