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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Château Margaux, bottled in July 2021, is absolutely divine on the nose. It unfurls to reveal exquisitely defined black fruit infused with graphite, Japanese nori and just a hint of potpourri and crushed stone. This is supremely well focused, refined and correct, so much so that you would think it comes from a…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafite-Rothschild is a gorgeous wine, but it is also very young. Readers lucky enough to own it will find a very classic, gracious Lafite-Rothschild that still needs a few years to be at its best. Bright red-toned fruit, crushed rocks, mint and licorice open first, followed by darker aromas and flavors that develop…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 700-$2,300) Bright medium ruby. Knockout nose combines black- and redcurrant, minerals, graphite, licorice and lavender. Wonderfully suave and seamless, but with great purity and precision of flavor and terrific inner-palate perfume and lift. This dances over every square millimeter of the palate. Almost painfully young today, with an impression of fresh acidity serving to…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Saturated ruby. Displays highly perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, cherry-cola, pipe tobacco, smoky oak and vanilla, along with exotic spice and floral topnotes. Smooth, broad and appealingly sweet, intense, spice-laced blackcurrant, cherry, candied violet and mocha flavors show outstanding depth and energy. The dark fruit and floral notes resonate on a strikingly long, seamless…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

(Saturated, bright ruby-red. Great nose offers a full range of aromas) cassis, raspberry, bitter chocolate, licorice, Asian spices. Dense, lush and sweet; a superripe Ornellaia that almost miraculously remains elegant. The raspberry and chocolate character follows through in the mouth. Finishes very fresh, with big, broad, chocolatey tannins and a late note of leather. Turned…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998…