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A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2016 Figeac has another dimension aromatically, compared to the previous vintage. A cornucopia of aromas, red and black fruit, cedar, pencil shavings, truffle and a subtle marine scent that becomes more prominent with aeration. The palate is framed by chiseled tannins, the acidity is finely tuned, the fruit shimmers with tension and nascent vivacity….

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal Rosé is magnificent. When Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon started to move Roederer towards organically farmed fruit, he started with Cristal Rosé, Roederer’s smallest production cuveé. Because of that, Cristal Rosé is the wine in this range that shows the current Roederer style in its fullest expression. Rich, vivid and crystalline in…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru does not quite have the amplitude of Magnien’s Clos Saint-Denis, but it displays more vivacious red fruit, clarifying with aeration and eventually develops quite an ethereal quality. The palate is beautifully balanced with sappy red fruit laced with white pepper, sage and graphite notes. Superb structure on the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has an intriguing nose. There is just a touch of reduction at first and the whole bunch element is more conspicuous here compared to the nascent 2019. Touches of brown spice, clove and freshly rolled tobacco accompany the black fruit. The palate has quite a lactic entry, a…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The most remarkable thing about the 2002 Extra Brut R.D. is how tense and structured it is. Despite having been disgorged over two years ago, the 2002 is very much tightly wound. After several hours, the power and resonance of the vintage start to come through, along with the natural richness of Pinot from Aÿ….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; about 4 g/l dosage; disgorged on October 22, 2013): Light gold. Powerful, mineral-laced scents of orange zest, pear skin, iodine and chamomile, with a hint of anise in the background. On the palate, vibrant orchard and citrus fruit flavors unfurl slowly, picking up toasty lees and mace nuances that…