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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

More perfumed, riper aroma of cherry, iodine and mint. Sweeter and suppler in the mouth, with a creamy texture for the year. Nice balance of flesh and spine. Betrays a slight tart edge on the aftertaste but this has subtle persistence. Slow-building, slightly tough tannins.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium red-ruby. Cooler aromas of black cherry and cedar. Less deep and less complex than the ’99 and ’98; a bit dry in the middle today, with the fruit suppressed. But better on the lingering finish.

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

A heady, exotic wine, the 2003 Mouton Rothschild takes hold of all the senses. The ripeness and exuberance of the year comes through in spades as this dramatic, opulent wine shows off its radiant personality. The 2003 can be enjoyed now, but it could also use another few years for the tannins to soften. Still,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good medium ruby. This is downright exotic on the nose: mocha, coffee, graphite and coconut, lifted by sandalwood and cinnamon spice. Then dense, supple and fine-grained without coming across as heavy. Suggestion of aromatic tree bark. A seamless wine that spreads out horizontally on the back end and finishes with very fine tannins. A bit…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Light gold. Vibrant, tangy aromas of apple, pear, white peach and minerals. Wound tight right now, only reluctantly offering up flavors of fresh orchard fruits, herbs and pepper. Finishes zesty and long. Seems less deep than the 1997 bottling; is this just in a sullen, youthful stage?

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…