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Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Malescot St. Exupery has a ripe, perfumed bouquet of ample red fruit laced with allspice, cedar and warm gravel. The medium-bodied palate displays slightly chewy tannin and feels quite primal, requiring more bottle age to knit together. There is density and even brawn here, but counterbalancing grace and elegance are needed to complete…

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Superb floral lift to the aromas of stone and citrus fruits, minerals and smoke. Compellingly silky, even thick, on entry, but with terrific inner-mouth mineral lift shaping and intensifying the wine’s lemon and floral flavors. Dense with dry extract, this outstanding 2016 premier cru leaves the salivary glands quivering on the very long, slow-building finish….

2001 Red Wines from the Rhone Valley (Jan 2004)

(grenache with 30% mourvedre and 20% syrah) Deep, bright red. Very ripe aromas of cassis, espresso, smoked meat and animal fur. Lush, fleshy and concentrated; supersweet grenache-dominated flavors of cherry and plum. Creamy but lively and elegant. Finishes long and firm, but turned a tad dry with aeration, showing menthol and herbal elements.

The Best New Wines From Spain (Jul 2003)

Full medium ruby. Roasted black fruits and graphite on the nose. Sweet, dense and full; the superripe black fruits show a roasted aspect, but firm acids are keeping the wine tightly wound. Needs another year or so to show more complexity. Peter Sisseck’s second wine is from purchased grapes but may also contain some declassified…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Medium red, less bright than the Poisets. Plum and currant aromas. Fat, sweet and plump; in a softer, easier style, already capable of giving pleasure. But sound acids give freshness to the chewy fruit. Tannins are dusty and broad. The vein of sand running through this clay-and-chalk site gives the wine more roundness, according to…

2004 and 2003 White Burgundies (Sep 2005)

(the highest in alcohol of these ’03s, at 13.4%; from 50-year-old vines) Sappy orange aroma. Sweet and tactile, with intense, layered fruit flavors of orange and tangerine sorbet. As creamy as this is, it also finishes with very good grip.