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Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, also the product of a cool vintage, comes across as a bit nervous today. It is an absolute infant by Monfortino standards, a wine that automatically forces the mind to project into the future. Readers lucky enough to own it will want to wait for at least a few years….

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium ruby. Expressive aromas of black raspberry, Cuban tobacco and grilled nuts; a bit more red fruit in character than either the 2000 or the 2001. Silky, seamless and enveloping, but the wine’s excellent vinosity gives its creamy fruit very good definition. Consistent from start to finish. Tannins are substantial but fine, allowing the fruit…

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1982 Lafite-Rothschild was a bottle with impeccable provenance, having been stored at the renowned La Tour d’Argent restaurant for its entire lifetime before being auctioned. Backward and youthful on the nose, this is intense with black fruit infused with cedar and graphite, gaining delineation with time yet still warning that it’s being broached too…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red with a hint of development at the rim. Mellow aromas of sandalwood, mocha, coffee, smoked meat and nutty oak. Fat, round and sweet, with a silky texture but good rather than outstanding depth of flavor. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins and good length.

The Margaux Paragon: Rauzan-Ségla 1900-2015 (Apr 2019)

The 2003 Rauzan-Ségla is a vintage that I have tasted several times and certainly constitutes one of the better Margaux. The bouquet is a little smudged with boysenberry and raspberry scents, sandalwood and sage, loose-knit with just a slight alcoholic warmth. The palate is low as you would expect, but it retains balance and it…