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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(90% cabernet sauvignon, 8% merlot and 2% cabernet franc): Deep ruby. Perfumed nose of red berries, cassis, flint, vanilla and peppery spices. Then fresh, juicy and suave in the mouth, with flavors of cassis, sweet cocoa and vanilla and a surprisingly fleshy, almost opulent texture for the vintage. Finishes very long, with smooth tannins and…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Mouton-Rothschild is an excellent wine for the vintage. Copious blackberry and blueberry fruits burst from the glass with incense and crushed violet scents, beautifully defined and perhaps even “audacious” for the growing season. The palate is “glossy” when compared directly to the other First Growth, yet there is brilliant delineation with a sense…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Mouton Rothschild has a complex bouquet with predominantly red fruit, singed leather, cedar and warm gravel. You might have expected these aromatics to derive from a warmer growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins, fine acidity, quite fleshy and sweet with a lovely build towards the finish. Very long on the…

The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)

Medium red. Knockout perfume of raspberry, minerals and truffley underbrush accented by licorice and pepper notes. Wonderfully silky yet energetic, with vibrant raspberry and Asian spice flavors complicated by sexy earth tones and a truffley sweetness. An element of saline minerality builds in the middle palate, with notes of pepper and herbs contributing thrust. Really…

Vinous Table: Asiate, New York (Apr 2008)

Our last Burgundy of the night was served blind. It was an explosive, ripe wine packed with an impressively dense core of fruit framed by new oak. It turned out to be the 2001 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tâche, a wine that is perhaps 15 years away from being ready to drink. Needless to…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a little more fruit intensity on the nose; it is slightly darker by direct comparison. Fine delineation, quite bold in the context of the vintage. The palate is very intense, fine acidity, very sensual with just a hint of dark chocolate and black truffle shavings on the…