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Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Raymond-Lafond has quite a deep golden/silvery color. The bouquet is rather waxy and honeyed, generous and well defined, though it does not quite deliver the complexity of the best 2015 Sauternes. The palate is balanced and slightly viscous on the entry, like some other Sauternes in this vintage, slightly Germanic in style with…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Deceptively medium in body, the 2015 Raymond-Lafon offers striking depth and plenty of nuance. The richness of the candied orange peel, apricot jam and pineapple notes is balanced by expressive floral notes that bring freshness and further shades of nuance. This is very nicely done.

2014 on the Mosel: Man Bats Last (Nov 2016)

Clementine, gooseberry and crab apple deliver a tart, bright message on the nose, but the animated cheek-tugging palate impression is underlain by hints of site-typical nuttiness that probably indicate the slightly deeper, richer direction this wine will take after a few years in bottle. The finish is invigoratingly pungent and generously juicy, if not quite…

2014 Germany: Riesling Resists Rain on the Rhine (May 2016)

White peach, fresh fig and apple are signaled on the nose and go on to lusciously dominate a buoyant, polished, caressing mid-palate. Hints of inner-mouth floral perfume add allure, but I miss the finishing clarity and sheer refreshment delivered by the corresponding Krötenpfuhl, and for now, at least, there is a not entirely positive sweet-sour…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Doisy-Védrines has a pure and seductive bouquet with lemon curd, apricot blossom and barley sugar scents that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with dried honey, candied orange peel and light spicy notes toward the finish. It’s not as corpulent or unctuous as other vintages, and I suspect some Sauternes-lovers might…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Full medium yellow-gold. Cool, discreet aromas of yellow plum, green papaya and mint; this strikes me as being a little less noble rot-affected than some other 2013 wines. Very suave and fresh on entry, then pure and powerful in the middle palate, with a silky texture and subtle, crisp flavors of lemon, lime, apple and…