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The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Opus One is absolutely exquisite. Bright red berry fruit, crushed flowers, mint and spice are all finely cut. The 2018 impresses with its energy and focus. It’s a gorgeous wine, and is also showing especially well today, with all of the potential I first saw in barrel very much on display. Bright acids…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Château d’Issan has an open-knit, fresh bouquet with light, tobacco-tinged black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, understated and elegant in style with a Saint-Julien-like finish. Six years ago, the bottle suggested a better wine, indicating that it peaked in the interim. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On tasting.

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Extra-Brut Grand Vintage is a terrific choice for drinking now, as it is so expressive. Baked apple tart, spice, lemon confit, marzipan and a hint of toastiness are front and center. Open-knit and engaging, the 2015 is a Champagne of pure and total pleasure.

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Good medium-deep red. Complex aromas of raspberry, cinnamon, mocha, spice, smoke and beefsteak tomato. Spicy, velvety and mouthfilling; not quite as fine as the estate ’96 but thick and rich. Has just enough acidity to maintain its balance. Finishes with lush tannins and very good length.

Domaine des Lambrays’ Clos des Lambrays 1966-2012 (Apr 2019)

Very ripe aromas of dark fruits, cinders, spices and earth, along with strong torrefaction notes of coffee and mocha; there’s something here that’s dulling the fruit. More pristine in the mouth than on the nose, but showing obvious evolution to its flavors of black fruits, iron and brown spices. Plenty of thickness here but lacks…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2006 Lynch-Bages has an airy bouquet, open but missing the same fruit intensity as other vintages. Light wild hedgerow, bilberry and touches of seaweed emerge but never fully get into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly rigid tannins that frame the dusky black fruit. More austere than vintages from this era, it…