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Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Opaque ruby. Deeply perfumed aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, floral pastilles and smoky minerals, with hints of cured tobacco and vanilla in the background. Seamless and appealingly sweet, offering energetic red berry and cola flavors and a touch of five-spice powder on the back half. Gains weight with air and finishes on a smoky note,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep ruby. Highly perfumed nose is brimming with blackcurrant, blackberry and violet; shows an almost fruit cocktail quality. Then smooth, dense and lush, with noteworthy intensity to its fresh black fruit flavors complicated by stony minerality and exotic herbs. A wonderfully seamless and concentrated wine with superb balance, very smooth tannins and an extremely long…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly has a very pure bouquet with blackberry, liquorice, hints of star anise and boysenberry jam, opulent and vivacious, a little glossy perhaps? The palate is medium-bodied with very supple and lithe tannin matched with a fine bead of acidity. Lovely balance here, fine tension with a insistent grip, layers of black fruit…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly remains a glorious example from this Pessac-Léognan estate and confirms my recent encounters. Blueberries and cassis scents soon join black cherries, blood orange and iris flower notes on the nose. It skillfully translates the precocity of the growing season, though there is just a touch of alcohol that blurs the edges compared…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium ruby-red. Very ripe but subdued aromas of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, woodsmoke, mocha and smoky underbrush. Silky on entry, then utterly smooth and seamless in the middle, with outstanding concentration and lift to the berry, tobacco and hot rock flavors. Finishes with utterly noble tannins and outstanding, slowly building length and lingering perfume….

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly, matured in 55% new oak, has a powerful, opulent and “daring” bouquet with layers of black fruit infused with cedar, graphite, pain grillé and pressed flowers. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly savoury black fruit laced with pencil lead and spices. There is great depth and volume to this Haut-Bailly, allied with…