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2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

Soft contours, silky tannins and sweet, perfumed fruit are some of the signatures in the 2014 Costa Russi. As always, Costa Russi is the most polished and open-knit of these wines in its youth. Succulent fruit, hard candy and lifted, perfumed aromatics give the 2014 considerable early appeal, but I expect time in bottle will…

2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 6 and 7 at 34hl/ha and bottled between March 25 and April 24. As Aubert de Villaine had noted earlier, this is a more introverted La Tâche that bided its time in the glass. The fruit is slightly darker than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, with the addition…

The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle (Feb 2019)

The 2016 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 24–25 at 31hL/ha (the highest of the five crus). It has an utterly sublime bouquet of blackberry, briar, crushed limestone, a dash of cracked black pepper and a little oregano. This is extremely complex and displays exquisite focus, to the extent that you could just…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Saturated bright, dark red-ruby. Very dark, reserved scents of blackberry, violet, licorice and spices; rather brooding and cool for an infant La Tâche. Boasts extraordinary concentration but this is very tightly wound today and showing less early flesh than the Richebourg. Like an essence of a wine, but distinctly vertical in the early going. The…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

A stunning wine, the 2017 Ornellaia offers a captivating interplay of richness and energy. Picking early was the key. Young vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were harvested in August for the first time ever. In the glass, the 2017 offers up an enticing mélange of mocha, cedar, tobacco and licorice, with soft curves that add…