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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru clearly has the most complexity and amplitude on the nose, featuring blackberry, briar, raspberry and crushed stone aromas; this feels complete and very harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a fine bead of acidity, superb structure and wonderful salinity and cohesion on the persistent finish. Très Chambertin…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2013 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is outrageously beautiful. I remember tasting it as vin clair in March, 2014. Today, as a finished Champagne from bottle, the 2013 captures all of the intense ripeness and bright acidity that make this vintage so exceptional. A wine of cut and brilliance, the 2013 will thrill readers…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale, bright yellow. Reduced nose needs air. Silky, concentrated Meursault combines sucrosité and power, not to mention the typical roundness of this bottling. Tactile, pliant yet youthfully tight citrus and stone fruit flavors finish with excellent persistence. Jobard told me that the 2009 version of this wine is drinking well right now.

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is just as impressive as it was earlier this year, although it appears to have shut down a touch since then. That is not a problem, though, as readers should not be thinking of opening a bottle anytime soon. Bright, creamy and explosive, the 2012 packs a serious…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée En Orveau 1er Cru is noticeably deeper in colour than its peers. The bouquet is more opaque and distant, demands more coaxing from the glass: dark plum, hints of oyster shell and a soupçon of blueberry. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin. There is firm backbone here – not rigid –…

Antinori Solaia From Magnum: 1978-2016 (Sep 2020)

The 2010 Solaia rounds out this flight in style. Swaths of tannin give the 2010 a real sense of explosive energy and vibrancy that only builds with time in the glass. A whole range of dark aromas and flavors give the 2010 its brooding, inward personality. Tasted from magnum, the 2010 is very young, but…