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The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Medium color, with a hint of development. Exotic aromas of chocolate, tar, very ripe cherries and prunes, and, sweet new oak, with woodsy and medicinal nuances. Sweet and very ripe, with better acidity than the ’89. In fact, this seems to he closing up already, and is not showing the opulence it displayed from the…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Bright, light, green-tinged yellow. Musky limey lift to the fruit-driven aromas of lemon and mandarin orange. Suave, seamless wine with lovely richness and no edges, but very youthful and more citrussy than the Champ-Canet, showing less easy sweetness. This concentrated, nicely delineated wine mounts slowly and lingers on the elegant, vibrant aftertaste. A lovely sexy…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes 1er Cru has a rich and slightly honeyed bouquet with hints of hazelnut, green olive and pressed flowers. The palate is balanced, with a lightly spiced, ginger-tinged entry. It feels very tight and backward at the moment, although it does convey energy toward the finish; therefore, I am inclined to…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good deep red. Tight but delicate and precise nose hints at violet and minerals; strong evidence of calcaire here. Then suave, silky and juicy, with bright acids framing the subtly sweet dark fruit flavors. More about perfume than sheer structure or depth, but then this wonderfully intense wine is currently in a rather imploded stage….

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Monfortino, also the product of a cool vintage, comes across as a bit nervous today. It is an absolute infant by Monfortino standards, a wine that automatically forces the mind to project into the future. Readers lucky enough to own it will want to wait for at least a few years….

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…