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Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2019 Skurfberg, which is whole-cluster-pressed Chenin matured in old _foudre_, has an understated bouquet of subtle undergrowth, chalk and chai tea scents that take their time to find their groove. The palate is very well balanced with a fine degree of acidity, more neutral in style than Sadie’s other 2019s, just a touch of…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2013 Brut Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons is outrageously beautiful. I remember tasting it as vin clair in March, 2014. Today, as a finished Champagne from bottle, the 2013 captures all of the intense ripeness and bright acidity that make this vintage so exceptional. A wine of cut and brilliance, the 2013 will thrill readers…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Bright, violet-tinged ruby. Deep aromas of black cherry, bitter chocolate, espresso and vanillin oak. A medium-bodied blend with strong cabernet notes of redcurrant, green and black pepper and toasty oak. Finishes with youthful firm, even rather ungiving, tannins.

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1989 Clos du Mesnil, from a warmer year, makes for a fascinating contrast to the cool inward 1988. It is a bigger, fatter wine that caresses the palate with layers of expansive, generous fruit. Sweet scents of caramel, hazelnuts and honey add complexity to the fruit. Despite its burnished, textured fruit, the 1989 remains…

Krug: Clos du Mesnil 1979-1998 (Jul 2011)

The 1989 Clos du Mesnil, from a warmer year, makes for a fascinating contrast to the cool inward 1988. It is a bigger, fatter wine that caresses the palate with layers of expansive, generous fruit. Sweet scents of caramel, hazelnuts and honey add complexity to the fruit. Despite its burnished, textured fruit, the 1989 remains…

The Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2004)

Full red-ruby. Spicy, high-toned nose dominated by tar and bourbon notes of American oak, along with hints of moss and loam. Lush and sweet in the mouth, with nicely concentrated flavors of currant, plum, tobacco and coffee. Finishes with fresh fruit but also a distinctly dry edge from the oak. Will this wine ever really…