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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage that I have encountered a dozen or so times. Jean-Hubert Délon oversaw a magnificent wine in this year. The nose of graphite-infused black fruit is still vivacious and very complex, very Pauillac-like, and supremely well focused. Hints of licorice develop with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features sappy…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full, bright ruby. Superripe aromas of roasted currant, violet and black licorice. Powerful and highly aromatic in the mouth, with brooding black fruit, violet and chocolate flavors. A step up in acidity from the Clos du Marquis, giving the wine great vinosity and cut. Extremely long and aromatic on the finish, with big, chewy, thoroughly…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2010 Dom Ruinart is starting to open up nicely. There’s still plenty of the intense, chalky minerality and energy the wine showed last year, but also a bit more mid-palate richness to balance things out. Lemon confit, marzipan, white flowers, slate and white pepper are some of the many aromas and flavors that take…

Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)

Among the wines of the 1990s, I especially liked the 1993 Dom Ruinart, which was beautiful, especially considering this was an original disgorgement. Layers of honeyed fruit, licorice and mint were woven together in a captivating fabric. We also caught this wine at near peak, as it was firing on all cylinders. What a beautiful…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has come together beautifully since I tasted it from barrel. Today, it is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. Powerful and statuesque in its beauty, Mouton is remarkable in every way. Layers of dark-toned fruit confer seriousness and intensity that builds with time. All of the finesse I saw…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has a magnificent bouquet that gradually unfolds in the glass to reveal blackberry, iodine, touches of crushed violet and then, with time, that gorgeous mintiness, just like you get in the 1945 (not that this is the 1945). The palate is beautifully balanced with a lattice of fine, succulent tannins, pure…