Archives: Product Reviews

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2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Opaque ruby. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of dark berries, potpourri and minerals. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering expansive black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Shows superb clarity and power on the finish, which is firmed by fine-grained, harmonious tannins. The balance here is remarkable.

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Opaque ruby. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of dark berries, potpourri and minerals. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering expansive black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Shows superb clarity and power on the finish, which is firmed by fine-grained, harmonious tannins. The balance here is remarkable.

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru, which had recently been bottled, has a tightly wound but intense bouquet that responds to aeration. The fruit appears a little darker than the 2015 with just a touch of pressed iris coming through. The palate is well balanced with a fresh, quite grippy entry. I admire the…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Tangy, highly perfumed aromas of raspberry, cranberry, damson plum and cardamom. At once dense and penetrating, displaying excellent acidity and inner-mouth tension but a bit youthfully disjointed at present. This wine does not offer the early deliciousness of the Beaux Monts but it has even more nervosité and more tannic support. Finishes with…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The tannins in the 2014 Carruades de Lafite are nearly buried by the richness of the fruit. Even so, the wine needs at least a few years in barrel, as it is pretty tightly wound at this stage. The combination of plush dark fruit and bright acidity is compelling. Hints of blood orange, flowers and…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Good full red. Soil-driven aromas of black cherry, raspberry, minerals, smoked meat and underbrush. Fat and slightly saline but youthfully closed today, hinting only at a subtle sweetness. This is best right now on the back end, which features excellent breadth and lingering perfume, as well as finer tannins than the Mazy or Ruchottes.