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2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

Another highlight in this range, the 2013 Barolo San Rocco is utterly beguiling. The bouquet alone is striking, but it is the wine’s total balance that is most appealing today. Tasted next to the Margheria, the San Rocco is deeper, darker and more overtly powerful, with a greater sense of Serralunga tannic clout. Dark cherry,…

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2013 Barolo Margheria shows its typically high-toned, aromatic profile. Scents of lavender, sage, mint, leather and earthiness meld into a core of dark stone fruits. Veins of bright acidity and salinity give the flavors an extra kick of brightness on the finish. The relatively high-altitude of this site and the limestone-rich soils yield a…

Bruno Giacosa Dinner at Legacy Records (Aug 2023)

The 2005 Barbaresco Rabajà emerges from a parcel that was subsequently classified within Asili, but it shows all the Rabajà signatures, namely dark fruit, plenty of structure and a good bit of tannin, too. Black cherry, graphite, spice, lavender and leather give the 2005 tons of character. It’s a gorgeous wine in every way.

A Look Back at the 2004 & 2005 Barbarescos (Jun 2016)

The 2005 Barbaresco Rabajà is a bit awkward. Today, it comes across as raw and not fully formed, which is a bit less development than I expected to see. The typical spice, menthol and balsamic notes are present, but the 2005 still needs time. The only questions are how much time and will the Rabajà…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Good medium red. Less expressive on the nose than the Asili, showing a higher-toned, more decadent quality and a whiff of underbrush. Fatter and sweeter in the mouth, but a powerful spine of acidity and a calcaire energy contribute to the wine’s tactile quality and give it lift. Best today on the long finish, which…

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a wine that appears to be going through an adolescent, unsettled phase. Several recent bottles have been quite stubborn, but this magnum is a bit better. Elegant and silky in feel, the 2001 gives the impression that it will mature earlier than some of the surrounding vintages. I know…