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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The 2017 Brunello di Montalcino is wildly perfumed, dusty and exotic, with balsam herbs, savory spices, red currants and plums coming across as so pretty yet rich and potent. A silky display of sour wild berries contrasted by candied citrus wows the senses as the 2017 plays a zesty sweet-and-sour act upon the palate. It’s…

Where the Wild Things Are: Welcome to Sardinia (Mar 2021)

Crushed wild berries, violets, incense and sweet spices lift up from the 2016 Barrua. It is silky in texture with a polished display of red and black fruits, well balanced by tactile mineral notes that form toward the close. Hints of fine tannin linger throughout the pretty, purple-tinged finale. The 2016 could use another year…

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè has more body than the Gavarini, but also larger-grained tannins that are pretty impenetrable. Let’s see what happens in time.

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè shows just how challenging this vintage is for sites that are moisture retentive. Large-scaled tannins and awkward contours are impossible to escape. Game, iron, licorice, smoke, tobacco and dried herbs add to a distinctly wild, feral feel.

2012 Barolo Part 2 – The Late Releases (Nov 2016)

Fenocchio’s 2012 Barolo is dark, powerful and intense. Dark stone fruit, mocha, cloves, rosemary, leather and tobacco give the 2012 its masculine, virile personality. Even with all of its obvious power, the 2012 retains a mid-weight sense of structure that makes it relatively easy to drink, even in its youth. This is a delicious entry-level…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Brilliant ruby. Cherry, red currant and pungent flowers on the spice- and mineral-accented nose. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering concentrated bitter cherry, dark chocolate and succulent herb flavors that are slow to unfurl. Shows very good energy and nervy cut on the persistent finish, which features a suggestion of cherry pit and gently…