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2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 d’Issan is plump, juicy and delicious. Torrefaction, smoke, licorice, plum, grilled herbs, leather and tobacco give the 2014 its racy, exuberant personality and considerable near-term appeal. This is an especially bold, rich Margaux, but it works nicely. Tasted two times.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep ruby-purple. Closed but extremely pure and penetrating on the nose, offering delicate aromas of crushed blackcurrant, flint and graphite lifted by a perfumed violet topnote. Very refined and clean on the palate, with concentrated cassis, violet, ink and cedar flavors that are archetypal Lafite. Finishes with the hint of astringency that I find in…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lafite-Rothschild has more vivacious bouquet than expected with veins of blue fruit and iodine tincturing the black fruit. It is well defined if just missing the audacity of the Latour. The palate is approachable on the entry with fine grain tannins. It feels a touch more mature than the other First Growths, though…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lafite-Rothschild has a vivacious bouquet with feisty red berry fruit laced with kirsch, blueberry and subtle blood orange aromas that soar from the glass. There is no ignoring these aromatics. The palate has a soft, fleshy entry that caresses the senses, quite plush and more like a 2009 in style. Layers of red…