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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru has a very intense, brilliantly-defined bouquet with laser-like precision, incredibly focused and perfectly integrated oak. Less generous than Bichot’s Chambertin at the moment though – this is biding its time. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, insistent grip and plenty of freshness. Maybe just a little more confit…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright lemon-yellow. Tight, high-pitched aromas and flavors of lemon, white flowers and minerals. Boasts terrific cut and energy, with a firm acid spine giving this wine a sappy, 2010-like palate feel. Not especially fleshy but boasts outstanding material and dry extract. Finishes classically dry and lemony, with excellent grip. Alexandre says he plans to wait…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Bollinger’s 2007 R.D. is superb, but it is also a wine that reflects the nature of a unique and challenging growing season. In most vintages the R.D. is marked by the distinct creaminess and breadth of Aÿ Pinot Noir. Two thousand seven, though, was a difficult year marked by very dry weather, rain at the…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(80% vendange entier; 20% new oak): Deep red. Distinctly wild aromas of black raspberry, violet, leather and game. Very rich and fine-grained, conveying an impression of medicinal reserve to its complex flavors of raspberry, black cherry, licorice and wild herbs. Offers a superb combination of clarity and depth. Finishes juicy and long, with serious ripe…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2003 Yquem was a homogenous harvest picked over a single trie between 17 and 26 September. It has a rich and opulent nose, crème brûlée, marmalade and a melted candle wax aroma. The palate has more to offer than the nose: fine acidity, less closed than the aromatics, touches of orange rind and mandarin…