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The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale yellow with green highlights. Musky, slightly reduced aromas of fruit salad and clove come across as a bit less pristine than the Désirée. Then sharply chiseled and dry in the mouth; less broad and open than the Désirée but with brighter acidity and more length. The 2013s finished very dry, noted Lafon, all between…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2012 Montrachet was the first wine that kicked off a bibulous week in Hong Kong courtesy of the munificent Mr. A. It has a gorgeous bouquet, perhaps a little too creamy at first but it seems to tighten up with aeration, almost steely when I returned to the glass after one hour. The palate…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Good bright green-tinged yellow. Aromas of mirabelle, white flowers and smoky oak. Large-scaled and thick but not yet elegant or shapely. In the solid style of the year but still youthfully monolithic. This finished its malolactic fermentation later than the Perrieres and needs to refine itself in barrel. But possesses the strong acidity and sappy,…

2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

(no new oak used here): Bright medium yellow. Aromas of spicy yellow fruits and menthol are a bit muted by SO2. Much more expressive in the mouth, where nectarine and peach flavors are accented by wild herbs and spices. Really spreads out to saturate the palate with nectarine and spices on the long, dusty finish….

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright yellow with green highlights. Explosive aromas of ripe peach, crushed stone, lavender sea salt and spices. Wonderfully rich and broad without any excess weight, with strong acidity and crushed-stone minerality leavening the fine-grained flavors of orange cream and fleur de sel. Best today on the slowly building, refined finish, which leaves the mouth vibrating…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Mouton-Rothschild is one of the strongest wines from the First Growth in that decade when Philippe Dhalluin nudged quality higher. It has a showstopping bouquet with black fruit laced with freshly rolled tobacco and a touch of forest floor. Wonderful delineation and focus, hints of wild mint developing in the glass. The palate…