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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild marks a return to the classic style of this First Growth after three hot vintages. Unsurprisingly, the Cabernet Sauvignon takes control and expresses cigar smoke and graphite aromas. This is very well defined, yet examining the wine over several minutes, I was searching in vain for that “magic touch” exuded in…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Mouton Rothschild is a potent, tightly wound Pauillac that will need a number of years to come together. Driving in its intensity, with searing tannins, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe today, with less of the charm and sensuality that is such a Mouton signature. That said, I was not thrilled…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 d’Issan is a fruity, straightforward wine built for near-term drinking. Crushed flowers, sweet red cherries, tobacco and anise linger on a finish marked by elements of dryness.

The Marital Margaux: d’Issan 1945-2015 (Jul 2018)

The 2013 d’Issan has an agreeable bouquet that is not nearly as sophisticated as the 2012, but it seems refined with touches of leather and tertiary black fruit. All it lacks is the energy of previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, clearly no sign of any greenness or herbaceous notes. My respectable…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Clinet is powerful, deep and enveloping. Black cherry, smoke, graphite, chocolate and French oak give the wine its intensity and gravitas. Hints of lavender and violet develop in the glass, adding lovely aromatic nuance, but the 2014 remains a big, imposing wine in need of cellaring. This is impressive juice. Tasted two times.

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Clinet is a wine that left me perplexed when I tasted it multiple times both from barrel and in bottle. The litmus test is how it shows blind… Here it has a lifted bouquet with truffle and smoke-infused red fruit, a subtle hickory note coming through with aeration. One or two attendees at…