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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Bright deep ruby. Vinous, complex aromas of cassis, roasted plum, spice, licorice, roast coffee, game and grilled bread. Voluminous yet currently rather inexpressive in the mouth; this has a depth and texture not shown in either the ’97 or ’98. Distinct notes of torrefaction in the mouth. Finishes very long, with well-buffered, ripe tannins.

Vinous Table: FYN, Cape Town, South Africa (Sep 2023)

The 1949 Mouton-Rothschild is a better wine than the 1948. I must admit that though this was a sound bottle, it did not reveal the spectral beauty of the previous bottle at the Four Seasons five years ago. Yet it has an entrancing bouquet, quite sensual and generous for a 1949 with those traits of…

Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)

The 1949 Mouton Rothschild is a wine that I have never tasted but as the saying goes, good things come to those who wait. It is blessed with a bewitching bouquet that is atypically outgoing and sensual for a usually more conservative millésime: copious red berry fruit, blood orange, graphite, Tuscan delicatessen with sawdust sprinkled…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Deep red-ruby. Explosive nose combines raspberry, roasted currant, grilled nuts and exotic spices. Rich, sexy, silky and full in the mouth, with expressive flavors of black raspberry, game, smoke and truffle. Finishes with strong but suave tannins and excellent length. St. Julien

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…