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1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Fresh, perfumed raspberry, cherry, chocolate, sandalwood and mint aromas. Strong on the attack, then fresh and intense, with cherry and mint flavors. Still, this doesn’t quite follow through on the back half. Perhaps more concentrated but a bit less refined than the Janasse ’96 Châteauneuf du Pape Chaupin. Tannins coat the tongue and…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Opaque medium ruby. Spectacular, slightly roasted nose explodes with black cherry, raspberry, bitter chocolate, violet, charred oak and pepper. Hugely rich and thick, with great chewy concentration and fullness and a note of dark chocolate. Still extremely primary and a bit tough in the middle, then somewhat rough on the back end, which features slightly…

Vinous Table: Chave Hermitage Vertical at Ristorante Morini, New York (May 2014)

One of my favorite wines of the night, the 1988 Hermitage is simply breathtaking in its beauty and profoundness. Sage, rosemary, sweet tobacco and dried flowers are some of the many notes that lift from the glass in a translucent, weightless, yet wonderfully deep wine. May I have another glass, please? Wow…

The Wines That Shaped My Life (Mar 2022)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1988 Hermitage from Chave. Previous bottles had demonstrated more density and grip, where this is more elegant and transparent with plenty of red berry fruit, rose petal, singed leather and a touch of curry leaf. The palate is beautifully balanced and poised, fresh and very…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Good youthful deep red. Perfumed, multifaceted aromas of crystallized black cherry, cassis, gibier and smoke. Fruity and precise in the mouth, with amazingly youthful dark berry flavors and terrific purity and thrust. Really razor-sharp, with more intensity than sheer size. Finishes with firm but suave tannins and terrific cut. This has the balance and stylishness…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

(this was slated to be bottled in January 2002; based on 60% mourvedre, in contrast to the ’98, which showcased the glorious grenache of that year) Full ruby. Knockout nose of black raspberry, roasted nuts, road tar, licorice, leather and game; comes across as riper and more roasted than the regular cuvee Fat, dense and…