Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Troplong Mondot has a fragrant bouquet with black cherry, cough candy and touches of marmalade, not complex but vigorous and fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bone-structure and good acidity. Some expressive Cabernet Franc lends a Left Bank tincture on the spicy, black pepper-tinged finish. Classy, but not sure about its…

New Releases from Spain (Sep 2012)

Bright red with an amber rim. A heady, wildly complex bouquet evokes red fruit preserves, potpourri, vanilla, cigar box and pipe tobacco, with slow-building vanilla and woodsmoke qualities. Sappy and seamless on the palate, showing sweet red berry, cherry and rose pastille flavors and a touch of mocha. Clings with outstanding tenacity on the finish,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 75% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot; pH 3.69; 60% new oak) Very deep purple. Fresh cabernet sauvignon-dominated nose shows floral, cassis and graphite aromas. Also vibrant on entry, with ripe, soft black fruit and mineral flavors that resonate through the smooth finish. This very well-made wine shows much more complexity, depth and…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

From purchased grapes, the 2020 Chablis Fourchaume 1er Cru is primal on the nose, offering grapefruit and light leesy scents and perhaps missing a bit of pedigree compared to the Montée de Tonnerre. The palate is saline on the entry, very citric and slightly bitter toward the finish, where I am seeking a little more…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Ruby-red. Roasted blackberry, coffee and mocha on the nose, along with a grapey quality. Fat, superripe and sweet; wonderfully full, sexy and broad. Just this side of exotic, but sound natural acidity gives shape to the thick, mellow dark berry and chocolate flavors. Finishes with substantial tannins and resounding length. This will be drinkable several…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Very fine aromas of quinine, lemon, lime, minerals and gingery; lightly musky suggestion of yeast autolysis. Very intensely flavored and solidly structured but already quite accessible and open to inspection. Slightly aggressive finish shows excellent persistence. Doesn’t offer the complexity or grip of the best D.P. vintages, but this is ripe and delicious wine.