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The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Malescot Saint Exupéry has a well-defined bouquet of ample red currant, cranberry and strawberry fruit laced with rose petal and hints of graphite. There is something almost Saint Julien–like about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with supple, graphite-infused black fruit, and quite linear and poised, but it conveys a genuine sense of…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Expressive nose offers espresso, mocha and smoked meat. Silky, suave and seamless, with a rare opulence for the year. There’s a distinct sweetness to the flavors of currant and tobacco. Finishes with very fine, ripe, building tannins and a note of chocolate.

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby-red. Penetrating, rather Burgundian aromas of spicy dark berries, bitter chocolate and violet. Supple on entry, then quite firm in the middle, with sappy, intense berry fruitiness supported by solid acids. Finishes long and spicy, firmly tannic but not dry. Still quite youthful but already very attractive. A modern style of Margaux, but still…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Lynch-Bages (Jan 2012)

5.3 g/l total acidity; 13.1% alcohol): Garnet-tinged dark ruby-red. Black fruits, candied red cherry, licorice, minerals, cedar and iron on the complex, still-reticent nose. Then more approachable on the palate, displaying a lovely restrained sweetness to the blackberry and blueberry fruit and excellent lift and clarity from lively acidity and solid underlying minerality. The finish…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

Sadly, it is not a great night for Bordeaux. The 1982 Léoville Las Cases is powerful but also incredibly compact, with little appeal or mid-palate depth. This is a very stubborn wine, even within the context of Las Cases.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The bottle of 1982 Léoville Las-Cases was sadly out of condition, though fortunately I tasted another example at a private dinner in Bordeaux a few weeks later. To be honest, I have always preferred the 1985 or 1986 to this vintage, and this gives me no reason to change my mind. It has a surliness…