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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Léoville Barton was ordered from the list at the 1925 Bistro in Bordeaux so we could raise a glass to Anthony Barton. This bottle seemed different from my last: more intensity on the nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, brown spices and cedar. The palate is not as light as I…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Léoville Barton has a simple but clean and fresh bouquet: blackberry, wild hedgerow, a touch of fennel and tarragon. There is a hint of tobacco that becomes more evident with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, potent tobacco and leafy notes, a relatively lightweight Léoville Barton that just attenuates a little…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Aromas of black cherry, cedar, graphite and licorice, along with a faint herbaceousness. In a distinctly more austere style than the ’99, and rather unforthcoming today. Has clarity and cut, but is there enough mid-palate material to support the firm tannins?

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Very pure aromas of black cherry and licorice, with faint nutty and herbal nuances; comes across as distinctly riper than the Langoa. Dense and chocolatey, with sound acids and underlying minerality giving the flavors impressive clarity. Richly oaky. Finishes long, with big, ripe tannins.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Though I have tasted the 1998 Haut-Bailly many times, this is the first time in magnum. It has an intense bouquet with blackberry and cassis. The violet element is a little stronger than I discerned on other bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of weight and density, powerful though almost pipped by the Pape…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Haut Bailly has been a great wine that coincided with the château’s acquisition by the late Bob Wilmers. It has a sublime bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry, crushed stone and hints of violet. After twenty years it is still so youthful. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly firm tannin at the beginning, plenty of…