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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

Although it was my favorite decade for this Saint-Émilion, the 2004 Figeac has always quietly impressed with its quality. This ex-château bottle, opened for my wedding anniversary, shows beautifully at 15 years old. Still deep in color with modest bricking on the rim, it has a seductive bouquet of black fruit, mulberry, graphite and fireside…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

Although it was my favorite decade for this Saint-Émilion, the 2004 Figeac has always quietly impressed with its quality. This ex-château bottle, opened for my wedding anniversary, shows beautifully at 15 years old. Still deep in color with modest bricking on the rim, it has a seductive bouquet of black fruit, mulberry, graphite and fireside…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep ruby-red. Plum, mocha, chocolate, licorice, graphite and violet on the nose, plus a whiff of baked fruits. Suave and dry, with good energy to the bitter cherry, menthol and underbrush flavors. Very much a cabernet-dominated style. Finishes juicy and youthfully clenched, with firm, slightly dry tannins.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep ruby-red. Plum, mocha, chocolate, licorice, graphite and violet on the nose, plus a whiff of baked fruits. Suave and dry, with good energy to the bitter cherry, menthol and underbrush flavors. Very much a cabernet-dominated style. Finishes juicy and youthfully clenched, with firm, slightly dry tannins.

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Good thick red. Very ripe aromas of melting caramel, tobacco, game, cinnamon and violets. Great sweetness and spice in the mouth; dense but not quite as fat as some right-bank ’90s; very stylish, actually, with decent acids. Tannins are quite firm. As accessible as this appears to be, we wouldn’t be at all surprised to…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A huge, intense Saint-Émilion, the Bélair-Monange is just as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. That’s the good news. The not-so-good news is that the wine is going to need at least a decade to shed some of its considerable baby fat. A rush of super-ripe black cherry, game, smoke and tobacco hits…