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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru is sensual and inviting, with tons of the textural dimension that is such a signature of this Grand Cru. Dried pear, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, spice and ginger come together in a creamy, open-knit wine with remarkable intensity. The Valmur finishes with tremendous density and power. I wouldn't dream…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru has a more extrovert bouquet with yellow fruit, grilled walnuts, a touch of oak that will need a couple of years to be subsumed. The palate is well balanced and focused with fine salinity, orange rind and tangerine on the entry, and a tensile and intense finish. Excellent. Tasted…

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2019 Chablis Valmur Grand Cru conveys strictness and correctness on the nose compared to the more expressive and perhaps more aromatically elegant Blanchots. This is a little austere at first, but it warms up nicely and reveals subtle orange blossom and undergrowth scents. The harmonious palate is very well balanced, with hints of white…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles 1er Cru is more timid on the nose following on from the Les Combettes and this needed more encouragement from the glass. Cold stone, granite and flint aromas are the order of the day, very well defined and precise. The palate is very concentrated with a lot of grip, the…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru has a much subtler bouquet than the Les Caillerets, the grilled walnut, almond and light smoky aromas gently wafting from the glass. The palate is built around tension and nervosité, very classic in style. Walnut and hazelnut notes emerge toward the finish, which fans out with style. This…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

There are three barrels of the 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru this year, two of them new and the third four years old. This was displaying some reduction at the time of my visit, although underneath there is intense black and red fruit plus a subtle marine influence of oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is…