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Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

Served from magnum, the 2005 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has a gorgeous freshly baked popcorn, almond and patisserie-scented bouquet that is damn irresistible, if maybe just lacking a bit of mineral drive. The palate is underpinned by a very fine bead of acidity, beautifully balanced and perhaps weightier than recent vintages. There is a lick of…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1985 Lafite-Rothschild is only a modest success in the context of the vintage. Here, it is totally outclassed by the 1985 Las Cases. Light, slightly loose-knit red berry fruit on the nose is complemented by warm gravel and smoky aromas, though it lacks a bit of energy. The palate is nicely balanced, not powerful…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Rather unforthcoming nose hints at redcurrant and cedar, along with a faint herbaceousness. Strong in extract and high in acidity, but today the wine flesh and fruit are dominated by its structure and grip. A marginally disappointing showing for Lafite, in which herbaceous hints and lack of flesh give the wine a slightly…

Paso Robles and Points South (Jul 2014)

Blackberry jam, cassis, savory herbs, cloves, lavender and new leather are some of the notes that jump from the glass in the 2011 Estate Cuvée. The high percentage of Petit Verdot in this vintage, along with the nature of the cool growing season, gives the 2011 a sense of energy and tannic backbone to balance…

Focus on California’s Central Coast (Nov 2013)

(48% syrah, 28% cabernet sauvignon and 24% petit verdot; 100% new French oak): Saturated ruby. A sexy, highly perfumed bouquet displays dark berry preserves, lavender, incense and smoky Indian spices. Smooth, palate-staining blueberry and floral pastille flavors show outstanding depth and energy, thanks to bright acidity and a peppery spice nuance. A zesty mineral note…

2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: An Epic Vintage (Dec 2012)

The 2009 Dominus has closed down quite a bit since I last tasted it. Today, all of the glorious fruit of the vintage is hiding behind a serious wall of tannin. The 2009 still possesses gorgeous inner perfume and plenty of sweetness, but little of the sexiness that will emerge over time. From time to…