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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

There are three barrels of the 2018 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru this year, two of them new and the third four years old. This was displaying some reduction at the time of my visit, although underneath there is intense black and red fruit plus a subtle marine influence of oyster shell and seaweed. The palate is…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Deep red. Pungently perfumed, noble aromas of black raspberry, cocoa powder and graphite. Highly concentrated and chewy with extract; this wine penetrating minerality gives it terrific cut and clarity, even if it’s rather ungiving at this early stage. Finishes very long, subtle and backward.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Bright deep red. More deeply pitched aromas of maraschino cherry, musky strawberry, gunpowder and earth. Quite minerally and closed in the middle palate, with texture currently masked by strong acids. Today the tannins are rather tough, making the wine difficult to taste. But finishes with persistent tart cherry flavor. Both this and the Fuees may…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Medium red. Aromas of redcurrant, iron, coffee and spices. Supple, spicy wine with excellent definition and an impression of piquant acidity to its redcurrant, raspberry and mineral flavors. A captivating saline quality draws out the finish. There are still plenty of dusty tannins to be absorbed but they’re neither dry nor green. Lacks only the…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

The 1970 is the most subtle of these Unicos, although I have tasted fresher examples. Delicate and perfumed throughout, the 1970 is laced with the essence of crushed flowers, tobacco, dried cherries and mint.

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

(fermented in large oak tanks and aged for six years in new French and American oak barriques) Saturated ruby. Explosively perfumed aromas of fresh ripe red fruits, floral oils, pipe tobacco and incense take on sexy vanilla and woodsmoke nuances as the wine opens up. Densely packed yet shockingly lithe on the palate, offering intense…