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Vinous Table: NoMad, New York City (Mar 2020)

Initially rather austere, the 1989 Hermitage blossoms beautifully with a bit of time in the glass as it gains depth, volume and complexity. The aromatics and overall vibrancy are just captivating. As gorgeous as the 1989 is today, tasting it I am reminded of the very simple fact that wines are made to be drunk…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Ruby-red. Sauvage yet extremely youthful aromas of dark berries, leather, minerals and spices; some high tones quickly dissipated with aeration. Huge, thick, extravagantly rich Hermitage; harmonious even if it still closed in the middle. Extremely unevolved dark berry flavors and a deep core of spice are complicated by notes of wild game and roasted plum….

2007 and 2006 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2009)

Ruby-red. Smoky red and dark berry aromas are complicated by violet, cured meat, anise and minerals. Textbook Cote-Rotie on the nose as well as the palate, which offers sweet raspberry and cassis flavors complicated by tobacco and candied licorice notes. Gentle tannins add grip and focus to the long, sappy finish. This is already delicious.

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1995 Cos d’Estournel was matured in 100% new oak and according to the estate was intentionally picked at a higher ripeness level than previous years. It is definitely showing more maturity than the 1996 Cos d’Estournel with more bricking evident on the rim. Similarly the nose does not convey the same vigor and fruité…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Red-ruby color, not quite as saturated as the ’96. More roasted and less minerally than the ’96: notes of black fruit, game, and toasty oak. Tightly wrapped and rather taut today, but offers terrific concentration and length. Today the wine tannins are very visible, and perhaps not quite as sweet as those of the ’96,…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Bright, lightly leesy aromas of fresh apples, minerals and spices. Fresh, spicy and intensely flavored, but quite austere, almost metallic and not yet demonstrating much personality. But firm, bright and fresh, finishing with good grip. This wine came with an excellent reputation, but I preferred both Pol Roger Rose and Blanc de Chardonnay from this…