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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Fonbadet makes good on the promise it showed last year, presenting a finely chiseled bouquet of blackberry, graphite and light sous-bois scents. Coy at first, it unfolds with confidence. The palate is very cohesive with well-judged natural acidity. There is plenty of coiled-up energy in this Fonbadet, but what really distinguishes it is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 La Fleur-Pétrus is more youthful than the 1999 Hosanna in appearance. The bouquet is decent enough, featuring soy-tinged red fruit, but overall it is missing some vigor and definition, and it certainly pales against the juxtaposed 2016. The palate is better, slightly bitter in the mouth with light rustic tannin and notes of…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Dark red. Cool, perfumed aromas of sappy cherry, licorice and mint; distinctly Burgundian in a laid-back way. Penetrating, cool and intensely flavored; bright and delineated, with firm minerality and sound acidity contributing to the impression of structure. Finishes with spreading tannins and sneaky length. Very successful for the year.

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

One of the true stand outs of the vintage, the 2013 La Fleur-Pétrus is superb. Graphite, violets, lavender, savory herbs, smoke and purplish fruit all meld together in a wine of incomparable grace. The La Fleur-Pétrus impresses for its textural elegance, volume and sheer class. It is without question one of the wines of the…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Deep ruby. Ripe aromas of blackcurrant jam, blueberry pie, minerals and spices. Nicely rich and dense, with blueberry jam and blackberry syrup flavors refreshed by lively harmonious acidity. This is one of the rare wines in 2013 that does remind one of cassis. Finishes with very good length. A major success.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good dark red. Roasted plum and beefsteak tomato; showing the exotically ripe side of the vintage. Fat, lush and sweet, with flavors similar to the aromas. Plenty of mocha and nuts from the oak, as well as some slightly drying wood tannins on the finish. Rich but a bit lacking in energy, and probably best…