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Remember, Remember: 1945 Bordeaux (May 2020)

The 1945 d'Yquem is consistent with the two previous bottles that I tasted. I will not say anything other than that it is a perfect bottle of Sauternes. It still has that ethereal delineation on the nose of vivacious Seville orange marmalade and quince aromas, if maybe just a little more nuttiness compared to previous…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1995 Petrus is one of the finest vintages of the decade, a silver medal behind the brilliant 1998. This bottle might well constitute the best that I have encountered. It has a beautiful, focused nose with hints of game and humidor infusing the black fruit. With aeration more red fruit becomes evident, allied with…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated red-ruby color. Knockout aromas of black raspberry, melted toffee, minerals and smoky oak. Explosively spicy, mulberry-flavored fruit builds and builds in the mouth. Harmonious acidity gives this extremely rich, large-scaled Petrus great balance for aging. Finishes with substantial but thoroughly ripe tannins and palate-staining length. At this early stage, I rate this wine a…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a little more amplitude compared to the Clavaillon, scents of Granny Smith apples and dewy meadow on a cold morning. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a little more weight and girth than the Clavaillon, not to mention a touch more salinity…

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1990 Dom Pérignon Rosé (magnum) is powerful and explosive in style, with superb overall intensity. In this flight, the 1990 comes across as a more polished version of the 1993. Just beginning to enter its tertiary phase, the 1990 is in a great place to deliver maximum pleasure. Autumn leaves, crushed flowers mint and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

Pale orange-bronze color. Pinot-like aromas of blood orange, game, smoke and earth, along with hints of orange marmalade and peach; the nose of this wine always reminds me of Nuits-Saint-Georges or Vosne-Romanee. Very intensely flavored, ripe and tactile, but without an ounce of excess weight. Compelling flavors of wild red fruits, spices and earth; very…