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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Conseillante is a regal and utterly exquisite Pomerol from the very first taste. Technical Director Marielle Cazaux and her team turned out a jewel of a wine. Silky tannins and lifted, precise aromatics make a strong first impression. Inky dark fruit, pain grillé, lavender, spice, menthol and a kiss of new French…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep, lurid violet. A highly perfumed bouquet evokes mineral- and spice-accented red/blue fruit liqueur, incense and floral oils, along with hints of cola and woodsmoke in the background. Sappy boysenberry, black raspberry, candied lavender and exotic spice flavors show a superb blend of depth and energy and turn sweeter through the back half. The berry…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

Like its stablemate La Violette, the 2018 Le Gay is initially reserved on the nose and gradually unfurls to reveal precise blackberry, bilberry, black truffle and light raspberry preserve aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. This is a relatively conservative Le Gay, but it is very precise and full of tension. Lovely blackberry…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Gay is unusually reticent today. Lavender, rose petal, mint, blood orange and crushed red berry fruit emerge over time. Deceptive in its mid-weight structure, the 2018 packs serious punch. It is one of more sensual wines of the vintage in Pomerol, but readers will have to be patient, as the 2018 is…

2014 Barolo: Late Releases (Nov 2018)

The 2013 Barolo Ciabot Berton 1961 offers good depth, but the searing tannins make me wonder if there is enough fruit for the long haul. Dried cherry, tobacco, mint and leather begin to emerge over time, but only with considerable reluctance.

Germany 2008: Crisp, Pure and Refreshing (Jan 2010)

(auction wine) Lively aromas of nectarine, candied lemon and nut oils. Elegant, spicy peach pit flavor displays impressive extract and saline acidity. Finishes creamy and convincing, with brown spices lingering persistently. An excellent spatlese!