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The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(from high-altitude vines with a southern exposure): Bright medium red. Less of a fruit bomb on the nose than the Narbantons, with its red berry aromas complicated by earthy nuances and some apparent oakiness. Cherry and raspberry flavors are a bit tightened in the middle palate and on the finish by wood tannins. More backward…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Moderately saturated medium red. Deep aromas of plum, raspberry and flinty, smoky minerality; one senses rocks here. Suppler and sweeter than the basic village Gevrey, but still with a bit of reserve to its plum, smoke and game flavors. This is silky and ripe–even a bit plump–but avoids coming off as heavy owing to its…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(20% new oak; not much frost here): Bright yellow. Aromas of lemon, lime and white peach plus a deeper petrolly nuance. Rich, silky and dense but with a light touch thanks to a firm citrussy edge and a touch of salinity. A bit youthfully clenched–even disjointed–today but I like this premier cru’s combination of floral…

Vinous Table: Marino Ristorante, Hollywood, CA (Jun 2018)

The 1988 Krug makes for a fabulous start. Tasted from a perfect bottle, the 1988 remains bright and focused, with all of the energy of this great vintage very much on display. Time has naturally softened some of the contours and added a good bit of nuance, but the 1988 Krug remains a Champagne of…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2001)

(note reprinted from Issue 93) Ineffable yeast autolysis aromas (biscuit, meal, nuts) virtually resist characterization; reminded me of a great Chevalier-Montrachet. A wine of extraordinary depth of flavor, vinosity and class, thanks to penetrating but perfectly harmonious, lipsmacking acidity. Quite dry but with wonderfully ripe fruit. Very firm and youthful on the finish, but already…