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Penfolds Collection 2021 (Jul 2021)

Opaque, bright-rimmed ruby. Highly pungent, smoke- and mineral-accented aromas of cherry pit, violet candy, cured tobacco, savory herbs, coconut and exotic spices on the kaleidoscopic nose. Shows superb clarity and spicy lift to its spice-laced bitter cherry, cassis, blueberry and floral pastille flavors, which take on black cardamom, menthol and cola nuances as the wine…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep red-ruby color. Initially mute nose opens to reveal a sappy black cherry and licorice aroma, but no sign of the superripe quality found in the best Lafleurs from decades past. Dense and extremely backward in the mouth; displays a very primary iodiney/fruit pit quality and excellent sweetness. Powerfully structured and quite tannic;…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 1994 Lafleur is a vintage that I drank regularly in the days when such off-vintages were cheap. However, it has long been a wine that seems permanently stuck in a root day: green and herbaceous on the nose, Loire meets Pomerol on the palate. Quite simply, I don’t think the Cabernet Franc achieved full…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot is nicely detailed on the nose of pixelated black fruit laced with raspberry and subtle floral scents; back notes of marmalade come through with aeration. The pliant palate is medium-bodied with luscious tannins disguising the structure behind this Saint-Émilion. I suspect that it might close up for a period before blossoming…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Beau-Séjour Bécot has really closed down since I tasted it en primeur. Inky red/purplish fruit, lavender, rose petal, mint and blood orange gradually open in the glass, all framed by veins of chalky minerality. The 2018 is a fabulous wine in the making, but readers have to be patient. Time in a decanter…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 1999 Dom Pérignon P2 is one of the most intriguing Champagnes I have tasted from Dom Pérignon in recent years. In fact, it was not included in a small vertical I tasted at the estate in March, but rather this is a bottle I tasted with friends in London. According to Chef de Caves…