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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(a monopole): Moderately saturated bright medium red. Very reticent nose hints at red berries, plum and menthol. A step up in texture and sweetness from the village wine but still with modest intensity and nuance. Red berry and spice flavors lead to a finish featuring dusty tannins and moderate length; this, too, turns a bit…

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Syrah comes from Elgin and Greyton and includes 40% whole-bunch fruit aged in 500- and 700-liter barrels (30% new). It has a gorgeous bouquet of raspberry, pomegranate, burning embers and crushed violet aromas that seem to give the olfactory senses a big hug. The palate is quite brilliantly balanced, the fine tannins framing…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2017 Syrah continues to serve as one of the Cape’s finest expressions of the variety. Gorgeous scents of raspberry, strawberry, Earl Grey tea and pomegranate seeds feature on the detailed nose; then the palate is lithe and silky, with perhaps more _garrigue_ notes coming through with bottle age. Divine.

2011 Barolo: The Here and Now (Mar 2015)

The 2011 Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata shows why this site is so highly regarded. Sweet and perfumed at the outset, yet also quite pliant and intense, the 2011 Rocche has it all. Rose petal, pomegranate, wild flowers and cinnamon all blossom in the glass. The 2011 is super-ripe, flashy and exotic, yet it also has the…

2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

Glass-staining ruby. Pungent, deep-pitched red berry and spicecake aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky minerals and candied flowers. Juicy, focused and pure on the palate, offering vibrant raspberry and boysenberry flavors that put on weight and become spicier with air. Finishes with outstanding energy and persistence, displaying lingering spiciness and velvety tannins that sneak…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Inky ruby. Intensely perfumed aromas of black and blue fruit preserves, exotic spices, cured tobacco, olive and potpourri are given vivacity by a smoky mineral nuance. Fresh and expansive in the mouth, displaying deeply concentrated boysenberry and cherry liqueur flavors, along with suggestions of candied violet, star anise and bitter chocolate. The floral and mineral…