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2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

Rich and explosive in feel, the 2021 Cheval Blanc is outrageously beautiful. For the first time since 2011, the Grand Vin is more than 50% Cabernet Franc. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and mocha are all amplified in this potent, luxurious Cheval Blanc. Polished, seamless tannins wrap it all together. This is…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc was picked between September 22 and October 14, and for the first time in many years there is a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc. This has a lovely bouquet, very clean and precise, featuring black cherry, wild mint, sous-bois and orange sorbet, all vivacious and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage. Vertical and aristocratic in bearing, Cheval is just stunning. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume to play off a core of rich dark fruit, gravel, spice, menthol and dried flowers. I also tasted the final three blending components,…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Deep, shimmering ruby. An expansive, hugely complex bouquet evokes an array of black and blue fruit, floral and exotic spice qualities, along with vanilla, espresso, licorice and tobacco notes that build as the wine opens up. Utterly stains the palate with sappy cherry liqueur, cassis, floral pastille, fruitcake and bitter chocolate flavors that show superb…

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Saffredi is one of the most elegant wines I have ever tasted here. It offers a beguiling mix of opulence in its fruit profile with a classic sense of structure that holds it all together. Super-ripe dark cherry, plum, mocha, licorice, leather and cloves infuse the 2019 with notable darkness. I would give…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Saturated, bright ruby-red. Vibrant aromas of cassis, plum and minerals, plus a hint of hot stones. Then juicy but tight and imploded in the mouth, showing terrific concentration and grip to its flavors of black fruits, minerals and licorice. Very cabernet in its precision and cut. Finishes with a solid spine for two or three…