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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has an austere nose that demands coaxing from the glass; struck flint and sea spray scents, cool, calm and collected. The palate is taut on the entry, then fans out with glee, notes of dessicated orange peel, white peach and tangerine, a lovely bitterness that counterbalances the concentration on…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1999 Latour has a dark garnet color with little aging on the rim. The nose is closed initially and demands coaxing, eventually revealing blackberry, cedar and light pencil-shaving aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, displaying some secondary notes of clove, white pepper and a distinct earthiness that comes through on the finish….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Latour is a vintage that I have not encountered for four or five years. It has a pH of 3.80 and a yield of 38hl/ha, representing 58% of the total crop. Interestingly, this includes 14% vin de presse compared to the 9 to 10% used nowadays. It has a classic Latour bouquet of…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full red-ruby. High-pitched aromas of red- and blackcurrant, minerals and leather. Wonderfully harmonious in the mouth, with compelling sweetness of fruit but also superb grip. A lush, rich wine that already displays impressive inner-mouth perfume. Finishes with broad, essentially gentle tannins. Doesn’t quite possess the grip or thrust of the ’01, but this is wine-of-the-vintage…

Vinous Table: The Waterside Inn, Maidenhead, UK (Jul 2022)

We finished with 2003 Gruaud Larose. I have never been a huge fan of this vintage. After almost two decades, it retains its decadent bouquet with black plum, cassis and touches of dark chocolate. Powerful, yet just a little monotone? The palate is expectedly ripe and opulent, dried blood infused black fruit with a voluminous…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good ruby-red. Full-blown aromas of black fruits, coffee liqueur, mint and roasted meat. Quite powerful in the mouth without coming across as sweet; shows distinctly southern notes of garrigue and scorched earth. Less silky than I expected; in fact, this seems to be closing down today. Substantial, slightly disjointed tannins hit the palate late and…