Archives: Product Reviews

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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

(bottled in March of 2002; from a yield of 32 hectoliters per hectare) Bright, deep ruby-red, slightly less saturated than the Petite Chapelle. Highly aromatic nose combines cherry, espresso, game and minerals. Lush, sweet and pliant, with superb texture and flesh. Remarkably well-balanced and suave, thanks to its harmonious acidity and thoroughly buffered tannins. One…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Latour is a blend of 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. It has quite a deep colour considering that it is now 30 years old with little maturation on its rim. I appreciate the nose here: quite dense at first and yet well-defined, plenty of fruit extant…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

: Full, deep red. Spicy aromas of cassis and rose petal, with a whiff of meat. Then wonderfully penetrating and classy, with bright acidity giving the wine superb clarity and thrust. This has terrific structure. Finishes very long and fine, with excellent grip. By far the finest bottle I’ve tasted to date of this wine,…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1982 Palmer is a vintage that I have rarely encountered since it has always been overshadowed by the 1983, even deemed a failure in some quarters. Now at four decades, it does have a slightly musty, earthy nose that fails to deliver a fraction of the fruit displayed by the 1983. Maybe a touch…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2004 Chateau Margaux is one of the dark horses of the decade. This bottle, which came directly from the château cellars, accidentally landing in my hands (long story), reconfirms the caliber. The bouquet takes a little time to find its feet, eventually offering richly layered scents with raspberry, blackberry, crushed rock and pencil shavings….

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Carruades de Lafite is friendly, open and quite expressive. Sweet tobacco, cedar, mint, dried cherries and herbs open up in a mid-weight, fleshy red to drink over the next decade or so. The 2012 is soft, silky and easygoing.