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Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2012 Cristal is the first made entirely from biodynamically farmed vineyards. Passionfruit, mango, spice and ginger open first, but it is the wine’s textural richness and volume that stand out most. The 2012 is one of the most opulent, flamboyant recent Cristals. Those qualities feel especially amplified in this tasting, perhaps because of the…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal is another absolutely stellar wine this flight of recent releases. Rich, vinous and beautifully textured, the 2012 has been nothing short of magnificent on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. In the glass, the 2012 is radiant and luscious, yet it possesses remarkable transparency and striking aromatic depth. Light…

Burgundy With Plenty Of Age: 1865-1999 (May 2019)

The 1996 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru puts in a splendid performance. Quite deep in colour (like many Pinots this vintage), it has a bewitching and precise bouquet with dark cherries, crushed stone, iris and oyster shells, gaining more and more delineation as it opens in the glass. The palate is very focused, fresh and vibrant, hints…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Darker, rather delicate aromas of blackberry, black raspberry and chocolate. Chewy and rich in the mouth, with obvious sweetness and density, but quite closed, even a bit brutal today. Muscular and tightly clenched. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins that are smooth rather than aggressive.

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Very good deep color. Aromatic oaky nose, with an iron scent. Tightly structured yet accessible; very Pauillac but with some green cabernet franc character. More intensely flavored than the ’94, which is quite shallow in comparison. Oak-spicy aftertaste.