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Vinous Table: La Casita, Guildford, UK (Sep 2020)

The 2011 Rioja Gran Reserva 904 has been one of my go-to cuvées since my earliest days as a wine lover. This latest release is a blend of 60-year-old Tempranillo from Briñas, Rodenzo and Villalba (89%) and the remainder Graciano from the Montecillo vineyard. Fully de-stemmed and aged for 54 months in American oak, it…

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep red. Expansive scents of ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri and baking spices, plus hints of vanilla and tobacco in the background. Gently chewy in texture and appealingly sweet, offering nicely concentrated cherry-vanilla, blueberry and mocha flavors that tighten up on the back half. Shows good depth as well as energy and finishes long…

Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015 (Oct 2019)

The 2015 Rioja Reserva, which comes mainly from Rioja Alavesa, has a tightly wound bouquet of broody black fruit, Cuban cigar and black olive. It is not intense, but it is very elegant. The medium-bodied palate is off-dry, marked by fine acidity and plenty of soy-tinged black fruit. With aeration, it develops more depth and…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lively, again, very mineral driven nose. The whole bunches, around two thirds, are neatly integrated. The palate is fresh and quite saline on the entry, and minerally like almost all of Roumier’s other 2021s. Very fresh with a harmonious, slightly brittle finish. It is very Cras,…

Vinous Table: Elystan Street, London, United Kingdom (Sep 2020)

The second bottle, from an estate I know like the back of my hand, was the 1996 Pontet Canet. One or two people had suggested that this might be past its best; after all, it predates the innovations and application of biodynamics overseen by Alfred Tesseron by several years. On the contrary, it has aged…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Blackcurrant, plum, tobacco and black olive nose is more complex and serious than that of either of the foregoing vintages. Thick, grapey and concentrated; still quite primary. This shows the fat and depth of the ’96 vintage in the northern Medoc. Finishes long, with substantial tannins. Impressive.