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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

I once described the 2009 Le Gay as monumental and I have no reason to alter that view under these blind conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, truffle, forest floor and light tobacco scents that gather momentum in the glass. Captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well poised with…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Pretty aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and truffle. Then dense and almost massive on the palate, with rich flavors of black plum, cassis and cocoa coating the palate. My enthusiasm was muted by a mouth-puckering tannic astringency. This big, full-bodied Pomerol might yet come around, but I doubt it will ever be…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2010 Rieussec is similar to the previous bottle a couple of years ago. It has since opened with saffron-tinged honeyed fruit, dried honey and almond shavings. This example is more vanillary and oaky than previous ones, and that actually distracts from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied; again, the new oak feels more…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Rieussec is slightly more backwards on the nose. It is very focused with almond, saffron, orange pith and dried honey aromas that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a harmonious entry. Impressive depth with lovely vanillary new oak, it is long and pure towards the finish. A Sauternes with pedigree….

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright straw-gold. Spectacular, intense, exotic botrytized nose is redolent of honeyed yellow peach, apricot and saffron. Then very sweet in the mouth, with concentrated flavors of dried peach, ginger and honey lifted by bright acidity. The finish is long and polished, featuring persistent peach, honey and white pepper nuances.

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Tour Maillet (Lagardere) is a potent wine. A blast of dark cherry/plum fruit, chocolate, new leather, licorice and espresso are front and center. This is an especially concentrated style, with copious new oak. All the elements are nicely balanced, but its hard not to think all the oak is not really needed. There's…