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Cellar Favorite: 2020 Château d’Yquem (Jun 2023)

The 2020 Yquem, a blend of 75% Semillon and 25% Sauvignon Blanc, cropped at a measly 10hl/ha, has a very sensual bouquet. It’s pretty mercurial as it unfolds in the glass, with scents of freshly sliced white peaches, almonds and pineapple. The oak is beautifully integrated, and allowing it further time, there are additional scents…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2011 Léoville-Barton marks the first vintage with Cabernet Franc in the blend, which Damien Barton explained was thanks to the smaller vats recently installed in the cuverie. There is a sense of airiness on the nose, very focused and well-defined with blackberry, bilberry and crushed stone aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and sappy with…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton is a gorgeous, classically built Saint-Julien. Graphite, leather, blue-toned fruit, spice, tobacco, licorice and lavender are immediately alluring. Medium in body and vibrant, the 2021 exudes finesse from start to finish. It is very much on the restrained side, with all the elements impeccably balanced. I would give this a few years…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton was picked from 27 September until 7 October, matured in 60% new oak. The alcohol is 13.12%. It has a clean and pure bouquet with blackberry, bilberry, cedar and hints of shucked oyster shell: focused and very well delineated, classic in style. The palate has a smooth and cohesive entry, very well-knit…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Léoville-Barton is a wine of notable intensity, but all of that power is directed inward. Tightly coiled and vibrant, the Léoville-Barton is going to need time to be ready, but that is to be expected. There is terrific energy here, if not the volume of the preceding three vintages. That’s not a problem.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep ruby-red. Penetrating aromas of cassis and minerals. The nose does not prepare one for this huge, improbably sweet, palate-saturating wine, whose pungent minerality and epic intensity makes it solid as a rock. The three-dimensional texture here is uncanny, and the wine’s explosive finishing flavors of dark berries, bitter chocolate and minerals persist for minutes….