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The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Moderately saturated medium color. Floral, minty, new-oaky nose, with an exotic coconut note; showed some alcohol as it opened in the glass. Silky, supple, and moderately concentrated finishes with palate-caressing tannins and spicy oak. Nicely balanced for early drinking.

Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 2001 Vieux Château Certan is one of Alexandre Thienpont’s favorite vintages, and it is easy to see why. It has a classy bouquet, brambly red fruit, quite luscious in style and aromatics that are determined to seduce. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm backbone that will guarantee this as a long-term Pomerol. There…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Saturated ruby-red. Pure but reticent nose hints at plum, raspberry and chocolate. Juicy and sweet but rather closed in the middle palate. Very serious merlot here: this has terrific penetration and structure for a 2001 from the Right Bank. Finishes long and gripping. A very good showing, but this wine really needs seven or eight…

New Releases from Southern Italy (Sep 2003)

Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of porty dried berries, licorice, pepper and smoky oak, plus a whiff of honey. Rather disjointed in the mouth, showing both raisiny and green elements, as well as tart and resiny notes. Then sweet and firm on the finish. A rather odd showing for this wine. (A second bottle was…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2017 Bannockburn Pinot Noir has a lovely, understated bouquet with blackberry and briary aromas and a subtle earthy/forest floor note loitering in the wings. The palate is well balanced with fine tannin and gentle grip in the mouth, but nothing overly powerful. It is a natural Pinot Noir leaning towards a broodier style, yet…

Central Tuscany: Maremma, Montepulciano and Beyond (Mar 2019)

The 2015 Saffredi is a powerful, racy wine. Even so, I don’t find the nuance, clarity or freshness that made the 2015 so complete last year. Part or all of that may be attributable to multiple bottlings. My feeling on the subject is very simple. Multiple bottlings inevitably lead to bottle variation, and that is…