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A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Ausone has a sumptuous bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and orange blossom aromas. The wine is beautifully defined blossoms with aeration. It becomes very liquorice and menthol-like after 10 minutes’ aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It is not a powerful 2009 and it feels sleek and quite tensile….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Serious medicinal reserve to the aromas of iron, violet and coconutty oak. A real mineral bath on the palate, with outstanding concentration and energy to the flavors of dark berries and flowers. Hiding more than it’s showing today and destined for three or four decades of improvement in bottle. The remarkably palate-staining finish…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Cherry-red. Aromatic nose of tart red berries, minerals and spicy oak, plus a slight greenness. Stylish and on the lean side, with red berry flavors brightened by firm acids. Finishes with good length and a slight medicinal quality.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Medium red. Slightly medicinal aromas of cherry, smoke and earth. Has texture and sweetness, but my sample showed an intrusive green streak. Still rather tightly wrapped. This initially showed some finishing dryness, but seemed to grow riper and longer with aeration.

Loire Valley Sauvignon Blanc (Sep 2014)

Greenish yellow. Lively but reticent aromas of citrus oil, ginger and wet stone. Gently sweet and tactile, with juicy citrus and yellow fruit flavors lifted by spicy nuances. Still needs time, but already displays stellar clarity and finishes with vibrant persistence. This is certainly one of the finest sauvignon blancs of the 2012 vintage.

New Non-Vintage Champagnes (Dec 2013)

(effectively the same blend as the regular Grande Dame, with the addition of still pinot noir from Bouzy; LAAAQAQ): Vivid orange-pink. Seductively perfumed aromas of ripe red berries, Asian spices, rose and smoky minerals. Densely packed and palate-staining, offering vibrant red and dark berry flavors, along with floral pastille and buttered toast qualities. The strikingly…