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2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Good full ruby. Perfumed redcurrant, blackberry, violet and licorice on the closed nose; this is much more characterized by red fruits than usual, and has less of the Oriental spice elements that I typically associate with this wine. At once ripe and cool, showing very smooth, dense, seamless red berry, dark cherry and licorice flavors….

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Petrus has plenty of fruit on the nose, elegant and floral, redcurrant and raspberry fruit, a touch of crushed stone and pressed rose petal. The palate is medium-bodied with a rich and quite extravagant style of the finish, lightly spiced with a rounded, velvety-smooth and quite dense finish. Maybe it just conveys a…

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2014 Opus One is not as showy or obvious as some of the other surrounding vintages, but it will have its day. Stylistically, the 2014 is bright and also a touch linear, with a construction built more on focus rather than opulence. Readers should plan on giving the 2014 another few years in bottle…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1995 Yquem is deep gold in colour. According to the estate, potential alcohol levels shot up from 16° at the beginning of harvest to 30° within two weeks. The bouquet bursts from the glass, as before, quite Barsac-like in style with white peach, tangerine, acacia and saffron, a touch of candle wax with time….

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Vieux Château Mazerat is a very good wine that bridges the gap between the entry level Teyssier and the wines at the upper end of the Maltus range. Élevage has tamed some of the raw power that was present in the barrel sample, which is a good thing. There is plenty of richness,…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Vieux Château Mazerat has managed to lose that scintilla of sur-maturité on the nose, where the very expressive Cabernet Franc imparts touches of bell pepper and light earthy aromas, all well defined. The balanced palate delivers fine tannins and a mixture of red and black fruit. There is good substance and gentle grip…