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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Batailley has long been one of the hidden pleasures of this vintage. Now at 14 years of age I find no reason to alter that view. Here it has a pure bouquet with blackberry, cedar and a touch of kirsch, the latter a trait that I have not noticed before. The palate is…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Medium red-ruby. Somewhat medicinal aromas of licorice, violet, minerals and lead pencil. Supple and moderately ripe, with red- and blackcurrant flavors showing a restrained sweetness. A somewhat chunky Pauillac that finishes with rather tough tannins that spread out on the finish.

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full red-ruby. Expressive nose offers plum, black raspberry, tobacco, mocha, truffle, licorice and herbs. Suave, fine-grained and vibrant; generous and plush yet light on its feet. Finishes very long and classy, with sweet tannins, terrific energy and palate-coating persistence and perfume. Not as fat or full as the 2005, but just a step behind that…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Moderately saturated medium ruby. Aromas of black fruits, coffee and mocha, with a whiff of cherry liqueur. Then sweet, round and soft, with noteworthy depth to the black fruit, mineral and licorice flavors. Finishes sweet and long, with ripe, suave tannins and very good breadth. Serious, complex, stylish wine with plenty of shape and energy.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino is a big, super-ripe wine packed with dark blueberries, blackberries, spices and French oak. Rising notes of violets and licorice add a touch of freshness on the close. This is an opulent, soft-textured style of Brunello that offers plenty of richness and density, even if the flavor profile is not…

1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

The bouquet on the 1971 Cheval Blanc has a savoury, almost ferrous tincture on the nose, but that is supported by satisfying levels of strawberry and cranberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied. Elegant and refined, veins of clove and bay leaf infuse the surprisingly fleshy red fruit and impart a silky texture and more precocity…