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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Cheval Blanc has an attractive, slightly ferrous nose of light red fruit, loam and white pepper scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, very simple for Cheval Blanc, though endowed with a sense of weight and personality. White pepper and clove appear toward the finish. This should be drunk over the next…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

This bottle of 1983 Pichon-Lalande (I really can’t be bothered to type out its full name) is the best of many encountered over the years. This offers gorgeous melted red fruit, woodbines, smoke and cigar humidor scents that could only come from Pauillac. Hints of black truffle and morels follow after about an hour in…

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier has a concentrated, well-defined bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, tobacco, hickory and wild hedgerow. Touches of pressed iris flower surface with aeration. Generous, yet it maintains ample delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, white pepper and touches of tobacco, very fine depth, focused and perhaps a little more…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier is going to need a number of years to unwind. Rich, heady and super-concentrated, the 2020 is so impressive, right out of the gate. Crushed rocks, rose petal, cedar, pomegranate and mint all build as the 2020 shows off its vibrant, layered personality. Domaine de Chevalier remains one of the…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier, which was cropped at 38hl/ha, is deep purple with glints of blue. The bouquet is very clean, precise and focused, not dissimilar to the impressive Malartic Lagravière that I tasted alongside, touches of wet granite and truffle emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins. This Domaine de…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Domaine de Chevalier is brilliant. Bright, poised and wonderfully pure, the 2020 Domaine de Chevalier marries the radiance of the year with tremendous freshness. Red cherry fruit, blood orange, mint, star anise and cinnamon all meld together. The 2020 is a wine built on aromatic presence and persistence, more so than heft, with…