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California’s North Coast (May 2014)

(14% alcohol): Deep ruby-red. Rather cool aromas of plum syrup, cocoa powder, licorice and fresh herbs. Spicier and leaner than the young 2012, with a strong impression of acidity and an herbal element giving a tart quality to the blackberry, graphite and leather flavors. Finishes brisk but a bit sour, with some spiky acidity and…

2011 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: Terroir Matters – Updated (Nov 2013)

Araujo has long made some of the more restrained Cabernets in Napa Valley. The 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Eisele Vineyard is one of the more Left Bank inflected wines in the estate’s distinguished history. Beautifully layered and expressive, the 2011 graces the palate with exquisite finesse and total harmony. The 2011 isn’t a huge, explosive wine…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Opaque ruby. Ripe boysenberry and cassis on the exotically perfumed nose, complicated by suggestions of fresh flowers, Indian spices and incense. Sweet, deeply concentrated dark berry, candied cherry and fruitcake flavors show superb energy and a smooth, velvety texture. Really stains the palate but comes off graceful, with serious depth of flavor but no excess…

2011 Brunello di Montalcino: Terroir Matters (Feb 2016)

The 2011 Brunello di Montalcino is rich, open-knit and inviting. Sweet tobacco, herbs, licorice, menthol sage and earthy notes meld together as this mid-weight yet enveloping Brunello opens up in the glass. Although the 2011 offers lovely density and textural richness, the flavors are a touch forward for a young wine, while the alcohol is…

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light yellow-gold. Deeply pitched aromas of poached pear, fresh fig, orange custard and honey, with smoky mineral and buttered toast nuances adding complexity. Stains the palate with ripe citrus and orchard fruit flavors that are given spine and focus by juicy acidity. Closes taut, sappy and extremely long, with an echo of toastiness and wonderful…

Champagne’s Golden Age (Nov 2015)

The 2002 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is wonderfully open, expressive and resonant. The richness of the vintage comes through nicely, yet the more overt elements are very nicely balanced by a good deal of freshness. Baked apple, pastry, candied lemon, dried flowers and warm, toasty notes shape the generous, resonant finish. With time in…