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Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

((an 80/20 blend of merlot and cabernet franc; 3.6 pH; 75 IPT; 14.8% alcohol) Ruby-red. Floral aromas of strawberry, lead pencil and violet complemented by nuances of cola and white pepper. Then chewy but precise in the mouth, with youthful flavors of strawberry and raspberry jam complicated by kirsch and peppery spices. High but harmonious…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Canon has a curious bouquet that feels a little overripe compared to recent successes (of course, this predating the arrival of Nicolas Audebert.) Hints of prune and dates infuse the red and black fruit that slightly detract from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fine acidity, but it is…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Canon is a little disappointing on the nose in the context of a strong Right Bank flight. It feels a little loose-knit, lacks the same pixelation as its peers. It almost reminds me of a mature Chambolle-Musigny! The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly minty opening. Matters improve with fine structure, gentle grip…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good dark red. Expressive, complex aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, iron and flowers; showing its cabernet franc side today. Then juicy, minerally and tightly wound, displaying lovely delicacy and grip to its red fruit and floral flavors. Finishes gripping and taut, with talc-like chalky tannins and a light touch. Very gracefully made wine–and hardly a blockbuster….

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Opaque violet. Intensely perfumed, expansive black and blue fruit preserve, potpourri, Moroccan spice and botanical herb scents are complemented by smoky mineral and vanilla flourishes. Sappy, penetrating and deeply concentrated on the palate, offering vibrant, mineral-laced black currant, bitter cherry, chewing tobacco, mocha and floral pastille flavors that deepen and turn sweeter on the back…

Champagnes Salon & Delamotte 1959-2007 (Jun 2016)

Another highlight in this vertical, the 2002 Salon is also fascinating to taste after the 2004. Rich, opulent and intense, yet also very classic in the Salon house style, the 2002 possesses superb persistence and depth. The radiant vintage has softened the contours and given the wine fabulous depth to match its decidedly powerful personality….