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2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Pétrus has a classic Pomerol nose, perhaps darker fruit than other vintages, blackberry and briary, a touch of truffle and minerals. I love the definition here, the cool restraint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, chalky and tensile with moderate depth. There is a sense of composure,…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Deep ruby-purple. Captivating aromas of blackberry, black cherry, flowers, licorice and Oriental spices are lifted by hints of white pepper and soy sauce. Rich and concentrated yet suave on entry, then sweet but with outstanding grip in the middle, with harmonious acidity providing terrific lift and definition to the multifaceted, opulent flavors of dark berries,…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1998 Petrus never fails to deliver. This is a fabulous example that confirms it is a true tour de force. It has a compelling bouquet with mineral-rich black and red fruit with unerring purity. In this bottle, I notice a hint of hickory not observed previously. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins,…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Saturated ruby-red. Multidimensional nose melds black raspberry, mulberry, toffee, minerals, rose petal and roasted oak. Great sweetness, volume and depth; thick but magically light on its feet. Grows broader on the back half with no loss of shape. Firm underlying backbone is currently hidden by seamless fruit. Finishes with big but noble tannins and terrific…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc) Bright medium ruby. Delicate, floral aromas of violets, red berries and tobacco, with a hint of pine needles. Bright and fresh on entry, this lighter-styled, easygoing version of Cheval Blanc offers pretty red cherry and raspberry flavors nicely lifted by a citrus twist. Finishes very long, pure and suave,…

2008 Bordeaux: A Day In A Life (Feb 2018)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc has a very precise, mineral-driven bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit, energetic and incredibly focused, perhaps even more so than Ausone? The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin though I discerned a patina of oak dragging its heels, waiting to be subsumed. There is great concentration and yet conversely…